The in-house special - a five-course tasting menu by chef Mike Bassett, South Africa's original master of east-meets-west fusion cooking - at Myoga in The Vineyard Hotel includes a new wine pairing with every course. There's much to enjoy. On the food side, there may be too much to enjoy. The menu hops all over the globe from alamansi-flavoured sorbet (Japan) to chimichurri (a sort of Argentinian pesto), to a French gastrique (sweet and sour sauce), to a Sichuan pepper dipping sauce (China).Some dishes were tiny - the disappointingly pale and cold ginger dessert - while others were vast. Bassett's signature Granny Smith apple dessert - an elaborate pudding with numerous elements - is served on a large slice of tree trunk.The starters range from crisply elegant to downright boisterous and the contrast unsettled me. Some parts of the menu seemed dowdy in the razzmatazz context. The gazpacho, for example, was good but not "twisted" and seemed plain as a result.There are moments when it's obvious why Bassett is revered.The coconut-smoked cucumber served with the kabeljou was an exceptional complement.The bread platter - with its rye cracker and salami-coloured beetroot bun - was boldly experimental yet comforting.Bassett is capable of great refinement. I wanted him, over five courses, to take me on a themed taste journey. Instead, the menu veered worryingly in the direction of unrelated variety, buffet-style.For Bassett's skill and credentials to really shine, this menu could do with a purposeful edit.Save the dateWhat to eatThe standouts are the scallop starter, calamansi cleanser, kabeljou main and Granny Smith apple dessert.When to goWhen you can lie in the next day. The meal lasts three hours.Who to takeSomeone who rouses your impulse to feast.Whatever you doPonder the loos. The bathrooms are a riot: metallic surfaces, swirls and sweeps of colour . even mirrors opposite the toilets at seat height.What to drinkYou'd be crazy not to opt for the wine-pairing option. Sommelier Carl Davis's choices are inspired.What not to doDon't expect a knees-up. This is a fairly staid environment with decor that verges on grannyish. Settle in for a grown-up appreciation of plate and grape.How muchThe special is a significant bargain for fine dining: R395 for five courses (R520 with wine).The verdictOld-fashioned food glamour with interesting moments - although the menu could be strengthened by greater conceptual focus.Where to find it60 Colinton Road, The Vineyard Hotel and Spa, Newlands, 021-657-4545..