It is a trek to Lion's River from the coast. But it is worth the journey when your end point is KwaZulu-Natal's only wine estate, Abingdon, and its brilliant little café-restaurant. Well, not so little these days. Such is the demand for the Smorthwaite family's wines and Jane Smorthwaite's delicious country food that they have expanded. A former turkey run underneath the café has been stylishly converted into more lunching space.Upstairs, round the bar, former petro- exec Ian Smorthwaite does his pour-and-patter tastings, with daughter Laurie, the youthful head of KwaZulu-Natal's top wine school, lending a hand. Her speciality is bubbly. Abingdon's version is not inexpensive - with a production so tiny, so hand-crafted, it cannot be cheap. But it's the perfect aperitif as you wait for your main course. Perhaps while nibbling on a mixed harvest board of local charcuterie, cheeses and home-made bread.Jane is a committed supporter of local produce and farmers: The salmon trout comes from the upper Dargle nearby, and tastes as though it has swum onto your plate before happily abandoning itself to a topping of phyllo and a subtle lemon-and- herb sauce. That was my choice. There were two takers at our table for the pork belly. Gold medal and five stars to the crackling. Jane's pies are legend: the chicken-and-leek in a creamy sherry sauce, and the steak-and -Guinness, were models of delectability.We should not have had dessert but the Van der Hum crème brûlée and a warm choc-fudge cake (with orange liqueur ice-cream) beckoned irresistibly. Best of all was the croissant bread-and-butter pud. A good local cheese board if you are off sugar. Nespresso coffees.A house rule: tables of eight-plus are asked to order the Harvest Board, featuring an array of all the Abingdon specialities, for a steal-price of R140 each.And the grape on top (why must it always be a cherry?): the wines, grown just outside the window, made on the premises. Proudly local. And far from a curiosity. Many European vineyards are, like the Midlands, in summer-rainfall areas, and the altitude here helps, too. We like the chardonnay and syrah, but the viognier is our pick of the bunch. And we are looking forward to Ian's experiments with nebbiolo - production still too tiny to put on the list.Need to knowWhen to go: Saturday, Sunday, public holidays 11-5. In summer sit outside under shady oaks. In winter there are three fireplaces inside.What not to do: Take kids under 12Whatever you do: Drink local, although there are some "guest" wines and craft beers available.How much: From R110 for the pies (with appropriate sides) to R125 for the pork belly and salmon trout. Wines from R35 a glass to R185 a bottle. Bubbly rather more.Where: Abingdon Wine Estate, Lion's River. 083-463-8503...