The rush for Krispy Kreme doughnuts when they first landed in all their oily splendour on our shores was incredible. There were people sleeping outside the Rosebank shop the night before, scraping and pawing at the windows as dawn approached, and queues of desperados continued for months afterwards, both day and night.Naturally I was made to go along with my children to join a queue. And of course we walked away with an overly large box of the stuff.And so?Well, they're just doughnuts aren't they? Very sweet doughnuts. No better - and, okay, no worse - than the doughnuts at any of the supermarkets where I've bought them before.They have a way nicer box, I'll say that much, which at the end of the day - let's be realistic - might be what it's all about.I don't know what I was expecting. But I guess something that made me want to go back for more in weaker moments. The way good slap chips do. Or the best trashy soft-serve.Perhaps my problem is that my idea of doughnut heaven is not the super-soft cakey sort, dripping with icings and glazes, but the toothsome, long-proved yeast dough sort, never iced but usually topped with a shake of caster or icing sugar, and sometimes filled with jam or custard. The Krapfen or Berliner of Austria and Germany are still my favourite.Apparently Krispy Kreme are yeast-risen, but you'd never say so from the texture.Luckily, I discovered this week that making the perfect doughnut at home is quite simple. It's very satisfying and makes you feel extremely clever.This recipe comes via one of my favourite chefs, Jacob Kenedy, owner of London's Bocca di Lupo.This is his grandmother's fantastic recipe. Quite a granny she is too - her heady social life in Rome was the inspiration for much of Fellini's La Dolce Vita (I'm not sure how that gels with excellent doughnut-making, but no matter).The recipe is too long for this column, so here is the somewhat obscure link where I tracked it down: http://www.cityam.com/article/1379463430/dessert-master-his-nan-s-doughnutsIt looks epic but I promise it's really simple (it was my 11- year-old daughter who was the chief cook in our doughnut escapade).These are European style no-hole doughnuts. Make the smaller size, he recommends, or the centre will be raw.My favourite filling for these is good gelato. You know how ice cream makes a waffle dance and sing? Well that's what it does for a doughnut too.I'm sure I don't need to convince you how good a fresh, home-made doughnut is filled with caramel or pistachio gelato. I say, if you're going to do sugar, then make it count...