Spilling the beans: Good scones are hard to find

29 June 2016 - 10:25 By Andrea Burgener

Bad scones, good bunsWhy won't people just stop it? Stop making very bad scones I mean. I try them everywhere, and am always horrified. Even Woolworths, which usually gets things right in in-house cafés, sells scones akin to the worst prison fare. Of course I had to try one, foolishly ignoring the fact that they were already on display (scones should be baked on order). Perhaps they had been baked very recently, I told myself, or maybe there was a secret to keeping them fresh on the table? But no. The things were rock-hard, crumbly as gravel, tasteless as raw flour. Tried them at two branches; concrete both times.More recently I found myself in the deliciously mad Afro-Disney-baroque of the Crystal Court at the Palace of the Lost City. We were there for the "High Tea". And you guessed it: the scones did not have a regal bearing. Baked far too long ago, they were dry, solid and plain dull. I've now stopped hoping for a good scone to cross my path. The solution is to eat them at home, or not at all. Use any recipe from a reliable source (look online at "Could this be the perfect scone recipe - The Telegraph" for three exceptionally great ones), but most crucially, bake and then eat within 20 minutes or so. Always serve with double or clotted cream, not whipped, which dissolves when it touches a warm scone.Bad dumplings are another curse flooding the planet. Especially fusion dumplings. Cream cheese and spinach are a ridiculous proposition in a Cantonese wheat starch skin, but they're in all too many places. So I was doubtful about Momo Baohaus in Greenside, a smallish, minimalist new place serving a collection of fusion tapas (including dumplings), noodles and more. But these people know what they're doing. No daft combinations here; it's traditional with only little tweaks. The best things by far are the potsticker dumplings; whether meat or vegetable. The making and cooking of these dumplings requires care and know-how, and so they're often heavy and bland. These, though, have a feather-light, wafer-thin pastry and juicy, wonderful fillings. They are actually better than many traditional dumpling houses'. All other dishes we ate were fantastic (including the Bao, done in the trendy new foldover taco style - not technically, a bao or "bun"), but it's the potstickers I'll be going back for. We were there in the first teething week, so I'm assuming you won't need to wait the half-century that we did for our food. Once they have things up and running smoothly, this will be one of the best places to eat in the city. Momo Baohaus,139 Greenway Road, Greenside, 010-900-4889..

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