Bottle of the Week: Roan Ranger 2013 How much and where?R75; www.darlingwine.co.zaWhy?The label of this spicy red blend - a ranger communing with his roan horse - is a classic of understatement, just like the contents of the bottle. The colour roan is a mixture of white and brown and this wine is a blend of cinsault, grenache and mourvedre, so it could also be called a Rhone Ranger after the region in France which has a reputation for blended reds.It's a fresh and fruity red from the maritime appellation famous for Pieter-Dirk Uys and his creation Evita Bezuidenhout, and more recently toffees from Darling Sweet made by artist Hentie van der Merwe and Frits van Ryneveld who hails from Bloemfontein. Darling is the most underrated appellation in South Africa as a taste of this elegant red will confirm.It's blended by négociant Charles Withington, who runs a brave little wine shop in town. I first met Chas at Rustenberg in the 1980s when the Rustenberg dry red, a blend of cabernet and cinsault, was the best- value red in town. Made by Etienne le Riche who is undoutedly the king of South African cabernet, the dry red was made accessible by the cinsault. While fickle fashion gave cinsault and Etienne the boot, Chas was as faithful as a carthorse and wins the race with this hedonistic racehorse of a wine.Rating: ********* Black Beauty**** Bucephalus*** Shergar** Pocket Power* Shadowfax..