Whale be back

With the whales keeping a low profile in Plett this year, writer Claire Keeton and photographer Marianne Schwankhart go seal-watching instead

Where have all the whales gone? That's what the residents of Plettenberg Bay are wondering this spring. "At this time of year we are usually dodging whales between here [Beacon Island beach] and Robberg, but this year we have had far fewer," says sea-kayaking guide Gareth Weis.

"The numbers are down overall, though I saw a whale this week and I saw three different whale species on a trip three weeks ago," he says.

Every year, from about July to October, whales migrate to South Africa's southeastern coast. Plett, with its wide, sheltered bay, is usually one of the best places for whale-spotting - and it is dazzlingly beautiful with long white beaches and the rocky Robberg peninsula.

In past years, I have seen many Southern Rights, Humpbacks and Bryde's whales off Plett from a small boat.

On a previous trip with photographer Marianne Schwankhart, we were sailing off Beacon Island beach when a tall fin appeared alongside our tiny Hobie Cat. Knowing Plett is famous for both whales and Great White sharks, we felt apprehensive until a Bryde's whale came up right next to the boat.

By the time we went sea kayaking in Plett last week, however, we had spoken to enough local people to accept we were unlikely to see whales. So we asked Gareth if we could paddle across to the Robberg seal colony, a longer distance than most guided trips.

Having spent a day watching Great White sharks cruise around the large seal colony at Mossel Bay earlier in the week, we knew there would be sharks in the vicinity. We also knew, from the Great White researchers we had spent time with, that these sharks do not intentionally attack humans. But still we hoped not to spot any from the kayak, which sits only about 30cm out of the sea.

Gareth was once guiding eight tourists on sea kayaks when a Great White, as long as his kayak, began trailing him. Eventually the shark lost interest and disappeared.

A conservationist and sailor who lives with his family in a beach cottage - with solar panels, rainwater tanks and its own vegetable patch - Gareth, 32, enjoys kayaking and has been leading trips for about five years.

The morning we went out with him was sunny, with smooth swells - ideal conditions. Gareth, who guides for the eco-conscious company Ocean Blue, put Marianne and me in a double kayak while he went in his single.

Sea kayaks are much more stable than the whitewater kayaks or fibreglass K2 canoes - which Marianne and I have been known to capsize - and are easy to paddle even if you have no experience.

Before we got into the kayaks he led us through a yoga routine to warm up and stretch, and then we launched into the surf from Beacon Island beach and waited for Gareth about 100m offshore.

As we approached the nek in the Robberg peninsula, we could hear the seals barking and the first trio we saw had their tails up and heads submerged, as if they were doing water ballet.

Closer to shore, the sea became shallow and clear blue and we could see the shadow of our kayaks on the sandy ocean bed. We saw large seal pups on the rocks, males skirmishing, and others sliding into the sea.

Years ago when Gareth was studying nature conservation, he helped in a project on Robberg that involved analysing seal faeces.

"Robberg was a new seal colony and we wanted to find out what made up the bulk of the animals' diet. We would do a count, then chase them away and pick up fresh seal scat to determine what they ate," he says.

Looking across at the Beacon Island hotel, which is built on the site of an old whaling station, I was reminded of Moby Dick, and the resonant lines of its protagonist, Ishmael: "Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp, drizzly November in my soul ... I account it high time to get to sea as soon as I can."

• To contact Ocean Blue call 0445335083 or 0837013583, e-mail info@oceanadventures.co.za or visit www.oceanadventures.co.za.

BEACH FOOD:

The Plett Ski-Boat Association has a clubhouse on Beacon Island beach which serves only fish caught that morning. If you arrive too late, you miss out. We found a vacant table and ate an excellent meal; the fish was fresh, the chips crisp and the serving so generous that we struggled to finish it.

BEACH MASSAGE:

Paddling for hours makes your shoulders and back sore unless you're paddling fit. Marianne and I couldn't believe our luck when we saw what looked like a mirage on the Beacon Island beach: an awning with two women offering neck and back massages.

These professionals from the Forest Nature Spa did a thorough job, finding and releasing all our knots and stiffness in a half-hour session as we lay and listened to the waves.

WHERE IT IS:

Plettenberg Bay is on the Garden Route in the Western Cape. Plett is 96km east of George airport, 205km west of the Port Elizabeth airport and 34km from another popular destination, Knysna.

RETREAT ON THE WATER:

We stayed in Beau Rivage, a townhouse complex on the lagoon in the Piesang Valley, a 10-minute walk from Robberg Beach. Our three-room house (number 48) on the water provided comfortable and safe self-catering accommodation, with an outside en-suite bedroom. We also had a brick braai on the verandah, which was inhabited by two fluffy baby doves during our visit.

RATES:

This house is available in low season from R1000 a night.

CONTACT:

Irene van Wijk on 0824949416, e-mail: info@findersseekers.co.za or visit www.findersseekers.co.za/plett.php

AND THE FOOD:

Le Fournil de Plett bakery and café, run by a Frenchwoman, Florence Chabanel, and South African Jen Hops, has outstanding croissants and cappuccinos.

Their American pancakes with maple syrup were a hit with my five-year-old son, the egg and bacon on ciabatta was just right and the health option, home-made nature's crunch, tasted great.