Rock 'n' jol

Claire Keeton and photographer Marianne Schwankhart experience the boulders, rock pools and stars of the Cederberg mountains

. HIKING & CLIMBING

The Maltese Cross, a sandstone pillar that conjures up the symbol, the Wolfberg Cracks and Maalgat pool are popular day walks from Sanddrif, where we stayed.

Meandering along the Dwars River, which has rocky coves and stretches of wide sandy beaches, to Maalgat is easy and the clear water is great for swimming in summer, but chilly in spring.

The hikes up to the Cracks and the Cross, which wind through astonishing rock formations and across streams, are more strenuous but worth it.

Marianne and I climbed a crack up the Maltese Cross - reminding me of a climb I did in the Utah desert, which also has dramatic carved-out rock towers - and we did routes in the shadows of the Wolfberg Cracks.

The hike up to Tafelberg Mountain is longer. Overnight hiking in the Cederberg, sleeping in the fynbos under the stars, is a true wilderness experience.

Rocklands, further north, is famous for bouldering (gymnastic climbing with mats for protection) and attracts international travellers. I've been visiting the Cederberg for 20 years and every time I'm enchanted by its wild beauty.

• Permits: Day hikes cost R50 per adult; R30 per child (2-13 years).
• Contacts: Cape Nature 08612273628873; www.capenature.co.za; or Sanddrif (details below).

. SANDDRIF

Sanddrif Holiday Resort is a children's and climber's paradise and a great escape from city life. It is not a typical resort.

Cederberg feels remote and has limited cellphone reception (none at Sanddrif) and no formal shops.

We stocked up at Citrusdal and the farm's shop had a few essentials as well as home-made options, such as koeksisters. We stayed at Dollie Se Huis, a spacious thatch cottage with two bedrooms, a verandah, outdoor braai area and huge indoor fireplace.

The willowy, green campsite on the river has braai spots, electricity and two ablution blocks with hot water.

• Rates: The cottages are R650 for the first four people per cottage and R100 per additional person; camping is R120 for the first four people per site and R30 per additional person.
• Contact: Phone 0274822825; e-mail sanddrif@cederbergwine.com or visit www.cederbergwine.com.

. STAR GAZING

The Cederberg Observatory, run by five amateur astronomers, got its own dome 25 years ago after being established in the early 1980s.

On Saturday nights it is open to visitors for about two hours and one of its astronomers presents a slideshow on the skies, before unveiling the edges of the universe through a telescope.

I was spellbound looking at faraway galaxies, Jupiter's moons, globular clusters and other wondrous bright sights.

The viewing is closed at full moon and depends on the weather.

• For more information, e-mail malcolm@icegroup.co.za (Afrikaans); Chris at camkit@mweb.co.za (English) or visit www.cederbergobs.org.za.

. WINE TASTING

Like many journalists, I drink alcohol, but I can't pretend to be a wine connoisseur. My lawyer and engineering friends are, however, more accomplished and they shared my impression that the Cederberg Private Cellar produces fine wines. It has won a range of awards and the Platter's SA Wine Guide also gives its whites and reds many star ratings. I particularly liked the (non-acclaimed and lower-priced) Cederberg sauvignon blanc and the cabernet sauvignon was exceptionally smooth. That was the favourite.

We all agreed the Bukettraube was surprisingly good, especially given that none of us like sweeter wines.

Cederberg Private Cellars has "the highest vineyards in the Western Cape", at about 1000m above sea level, and can harvest until a month later.

• Wine tasting costs R20 per person and is open Monday to Saturday from 8.30am till noon and 2pm till 4pm.

. GETTING THERE

Sanddrif is only 250km from Cape Town but expect the journey to take about three hours as roadworks along the route cause delays.

From Cape Town, take the N1 and turn onto the N7, going northwest. Turn right at the Algeria/Cederberg sign, about 28km after Citrusdal. Continue over the Uitkyk Pass on about 46km of gravel road until you reach the Sanddrif reception.