Travellers Tales: A glorious encore

To drift around Paris without a destination is to discover the city's spirit, writes Saleem Seedat

Thank you, General Dietrich von Choltitz. Now, why would anyone want to thank a military commander of one of the most destructive armies in the annals of history?

On August 9 1944 Von Choltitz was appointed military governor of occupied Paris and arrived in the city two days later to take control. Then for the next 16 days, he steadfastly disobeyed direct orders from Hitler to raze Paris to rubble, and on August 25 1944 he and the 17000 men under his command surrendered to the French.

So, thanks to the good general we can amble through the historical legacy of Paris and absorb its cultural charm and aesthetic splendour.

We stayed at the Best Western Elysées Bassano just off Avenue Marceau, not far from the Arc de Triomphe. Though a four-star hotel, it sadly fell short of the space and plushness we are accustomed to in South Africa. An average person could just about walk on either side of the bed. If you are carrying two large suitcases, you would have to leave one in the corridor.

However, its proximity to the Champs Elysées and the Métro stations was useful.

Of course, the start of any visit to Paris has to be the Arc de Triomphe. After his greatest victory, the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805, Napoleon promised his men they would return home under triumphal arches. The first stone was laid in 1806, but the monument was completed only in 1836.

Napoleon's nephew, who anointed himself Napoleon III after assuming power in 1851, ordered the transformation of the city. From this triumphal arch, a star of 12 broad avenues was created. The geometric splendour of this layout can be seen from the viewing platform atop the Arc de Triomphe. You can also enjoy a panoramic view of Paris.

One of those avenues is the Champs Elysées - a wide road flanked by broad pavements. I was surprised that, unlike Las Rambla, a thoroughfare in Barcelona, there were no buskers and mimes along it. But it did have a grandeur that makes it one of the most vibrant avenues in the world.

It is almost obligatory to enjoy a cup of coffee at one of its many cafés and restaurants. We did - at a price that could have bought us a sumptuous dinner at home, with desserts, nogal.

To meet our special dietary needs, we had found a restaurant on the internet. We were welcomed by the owner, who was dressed neatly in a lounge shirt and tie. But as soon as he rose to greet us, we saw that he was barefooted. This sight was disagreeable to our health and we made a hasty retreat. We did, however, find a cosy Egyptian place where we enjoyed a delectable chicken wrap.

We had bought a Paris Pass in South Africa that allowed us access to most museums, including the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe and, more importantly, unlimited travel on the metro trains and buses.

The drawback was that the Paris Pass had to be redeemed at the Hard Rock Café in Montmartre, just outside central Paris. It was not difficult to find, but did cause inconvenience in that we had to buy Métro tickets for the first day.

We also could not fully acquaint ourselves with all the benefits of the Paris Pass and plan accordingly before leaving home.

We boarded the train to simply drift away and were surprisingly rewarded by narrow cobbled streets, markets, boutiques and small speciality stores in areas such as the Jardin des Plantes Quarter and the Latin Quarter. It was just glorious to meander without a destination and at our own pace. For me this was the spirit of Paris.

The city is the home of haute couture and most of the couture houses, such as Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin and Chanel, are on Avenue Montaigne. To succumb to the temptation to buy an exquisite designer creation from one of these houses would have forced us to take a bond on our house. Not willing to take that risk, we simply ogled.

Our Paris Pass allowed us a cruise on the River Seine. We chose a late-afternoon trip. The Seine is the soul of Paris, for it was on the Île de la Cité that the Parisii tribe established a fishing village between 250BC and 200BC. This is what Julius Caesar found when he arrived in 53BC.

A cruise along this historic waterway is one of the best ways to experience Paris. The departure point is at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Guided by commentary in English, you can relax and see the sights as you drift down the river. The national assembly is on the Left Bank, the Louvre on the Right Bank and further down is Notre-Dame.

In addition, we passed many bridges that span the Seine, the oldest, Pont Neuf, dating back to 1607. Another, the Pont Alexandre III, is the most elaborate and ornate, decorated with sculptures of cherubs and nymphs.

On a previous visit, we had seen Paris embraced in the subdued light of the setting sun from the top of the Eiffel Tower. Now, we watched, entranced, from the River Seine. And just as darkness swept across the horizon, an exuberance of lights darted across the skies and played on the water, celebrating the romance of the city.

Paris is evocative, a memory that will linger warmly in glorious encore.

Getting There: Air France flies direct between Johannesburg and Paris, and flights will also start operating between Paris and Cape Town. Fares start at R8748. Flying via the Middle East is cheaper with Qatar Airlines offering fares from R5614 and Etihad from R5911. The Paris Pass can be bought through any travel agency in South Africa.

Visas and red tape: South African passport holders require a Schengen visa, available from the French consulate in Johannesburg (tel: 0117785600). Visa applications cost à60 (about R600).

Where to stay: The area around the Gare du Nord makes a convenient base from which to explore Paris. Decent hotels include the Mercure Paris Terminus Nord (from à100-à250 a night) and the nearby Hotel Gare du Nord (from à100). At the New Hotel Gare du Nord, located in a very Parisian building, rooms cost as little as à84 for early bookings. See www.booking.com for hotel deals across Paris.