The sandy forests of Kosi Bay are so enchanting, you almost expect the trees to start moving and whispering, much like the magical Ents in The Lord of the Rings. And the shimmering lakes - four of them linked by a network of river channels - are just as bewitching.

When we first saw the dark waters, Marianne and I were amazed at this hidden world, unlike any we'd seen before. We felt as if we'd stumbled onto a good location for a Survivor swamp series, except that the remote inlet, from where we were launching our canoe, was deserted. A rudimentary ferry, made with branches of raffia palms tied together with vine ropes and with a long rope attached, reminded us that the wetlands are inhabited.

Originally named the St Lucia Wetland Park, it is now known as the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Thonga fishermen, who lived in the park long before it was declared South Africa's first world heritage site, still inhabit the swamp forest and catch fish using traditional bamboo traps dating back 700 years.

When we were on the lake, we saw a fisherman poling along in a handmade dugout canoe. Marianne and I had arranged to explore the lakes system by canoe and were expecting to do a long paddle. We were surprised, therefore, at the start of our trail to the lakes when our guide, Vusi Mahlangu, 26, pulled out only one paddle. He was astonished that we wanted to paddle but he agreed we could take it in turns, which worked out to our advantage when the wind got up.

To reach the lakes, we hiked through pristine forest with Zulu potberry trees, forest-climbing bamboo, iron plums and creepers, and enough open space to appreciate the environment. In sandy forest, you can walk easily without getting entangled or ducking at every bend.

We learnt about the milkberry tree, whose fruit, when it ferments, intoxicates monkeys so they fall out of the trees.

After hiking about 20 minutes, we reached the water's edge and Vusi retrieved a bulky Indian canoe. The size made the paddling more demanding but also meant the canoe was stable when waves rocked it. We pushed off from the shore with Vusi paddling and headed up the Siyala river.

From this perspective, we could appreciate the swamp forest with its giant raffia palms, ferns and sprawling swamp fig trees that hung over the banks.

We drifted through purple water lilies - Vusi made us each a necklace by entwining them together - passed a kingfisher and saw a leguaan and a palm nut vulture in the trees.

When we had gone upriver for some distance, we headed back towards the lake system. I took over the helm from Vusi and paddled us towards lake four, which is freshwater, unlike lake three, which is 20% salt and the rest sweet water.

I found the canoe much harder to steer than any K2 canoe and we zig-zagged down the channel. By the time we reached lake three, the wind was whipping up white horses on the water so I stayed - or at least I tried to - close to the shore.

Knowing that when we were tired Vusi would take over the hard work - upriver into the wind - we kept going towards lake two. But the narrow channel between lakes three and two is long and we turned around before we reached it.

As we had expected, paddling back was hard work and Vusi took over from me (Marianne was taking photos).

Cruising along at a steady pace, we heard a splash nearby and looked around to see a young hippo, not a croc as expected, in the water. Seemingly unperturbed, Vusi noted he hadn't seen a hippo in that channel for a long time - but he did increase his speed.

Soon after this, we were back at the bay where we had put in and our guided trip was over. Long afterwards, however, we maintained our sense of wonder at the unique wetlands.

• Keeton and Schwankhart were guests of Kosi Forest Lodge

If you go

KOSI FOREST LODGE

 All eight canvas, wood and thatch suites in the forest were designed with privacy in mind. Sitting on the deck, overlooking a secluded glade with a hammock, you hear birds and monkeys and the occasional thunderstorm. The rooms are charming and rustic. They are comfortable with fine linen, carpets and mosquito nets, though the space is limited and they have no electricity. At night, paraffin lamps are lit in the rooms; there are bamboo torches outside. My favourite feature was the outdoor bathroom: showering or bathing under the sun or stars is fabulous. The suites have an inside toilet and basin that open onto the outside bathroom, and ours was built around an imposing buffalo thorn tree.

GOURMET FOOD

The meals at the lodge are enticing and we could not resist any of the courses they served us. On the first night, for example, we had phyllo pastry with baked camembert, a Moroccan couscous parcel, kassler ribs, home-made beer bread and malva pudding with nutmeg custard. The food was stylishly presented and excellent quality, and they cater to the special dietary needs of guests. Breakfast included home-made muffins and jam, fresh fruit salad and a range of cooked dishes.

The meals are served on a deck and there is another deck with a lounge. Across from reception is a deck in the trees with a fireplace. A short distance away is a swimming pool overlooking Lake Shengeza. At night, hippos graze around that side of the camp.

RATES: R1590 per person per night sharing (Jan-March 2012) or R1290 per night (April-August 2012). Rate includes all meals, tea and coffee, canoeing, a guided walk in raffia forest and a sundown experience.

CONTACTS: Call 035 474 1473 or 035 474 1490 or e-mail res@isibindi.co.za.