A week after I moved to Jo'burg, missing the surf, I decided to try climbing. That Friday I drove to a rock climbing paradise I had heard about in Mpumalanga to find someone, anyone, to take me climbing.

About three hours later, in Waterval Boven, I met a gang of students at the campsite, who invited me to join them climbing and share their tent. Despite the cramped space and snoring, it was better than sleeping in my rusty car in midwinter.

The next morning we hiked to a crag called Flying is Fun and for the first time I abseiled (lowering yourself down on a rope) over a cliff. That was fun but my first climb ever was way more exhilarating.

From the moment I stepped onto the rock, in a borrowed harness and bare feet, I was addicted.

My experience shows that even if you've never climbed, abseiled, mountain biked or paddled but want to try, Boven is ideal.

Nearly 18 years later, I still spend weekends climbing and cycling there. Marianne and I, our friends and partners have celebrated many New Years, including the dawn of 2012, there.

One New Year's Eve after feasting with Gustav Janse van Rensburg and his French wife Alex, who have become good friends (they run an adventure company, Roc 'n Rope, in Boven), we decided to climb at a crag called Hallucinogen.

Even with head torches, the climbs felt harder in the dark and we started that year on a natural high long before the champagne was flowing.

Boven wins the hearts of climbers and mountain bikers who come to explore and many relationships have begun under its starry skies. Two of my friends had weddings above the reddish cliffs last year.

The sandstone cliffs have made this railway town famous among climbers since there are more than 500 quality routes, from easy (grade 9) to technical (grade 34).

And locally, interest has grown among the youth of Emgwenya township, where professional climbing guide Thulani Mazibuko lives.

For me, the enduring appeal of climbing is being outdoors with friends in places such as Boven.

Indigenous forests flank the cliffs, named The Restaurant (at the End of the Universe) and rivers and waterfalls run through the valleys.

The Tranquilitas Adventure Farm, about 8km from the town and where we camp on most trips, is a peaceful place overlooking the Elands Valley. It is also the base for the annual sport climbing competition, the Roc Rally.

Boven's most popular climbing crags are less than half an hour's walk away and two established mountain-bike trails start there.

The forest trail (5km) winds on single track through switchbacks, past an occasional car wreck (how did they get there?), into a clearing and down across four bridges.

The rim trail (15km) follows the edge of the cliffs and is more technical. If you want to climb, go up the mountain trail (11km).

Many climbers start their day with a ride and then climb.

But Tranquilitas is also a great place for low, or no, action and you'll see hammocks with people stretched out in the sun and others relaxing in front of their chalets drinking tea, or later, sundowners.

Another feature is a slackline (tightrope) stretched between trees on which climbers practise their balance.

In summer when it rains, the rapids in the Elands River rise and kayakers take to the water. Abseiling next to the Elands River Falls near the tunnel of the N4 is also spectacular.

Another favourite activity on this side of the escarpment is trout fishing. Dullstroom is only 40km away.

If you come to Boven for a weekend or a holiday, you're sure to find activities that keep you, and any children, happy.

. PLACES TO STAY

Tranquilitas has camping, safari tents and four well-equipped, self-catering chalets.

They are small but comfortable with covered patios. Inside you find an open-plan kitchen and living area with two single beds, a bedroom and bathroom.

The six safari tents have two beds, crockery and cutlery, a power point and tables in front.

The campsites are comfortable with a few power points, and the ablution blocks have hot showers.

There is a pool with an artificial climbing wall and a hall. The green lawns provide space to play and relax with shade, swings, a jungle gym and a huge fireplace.

The Climbers' Lodge (or Chateau) in Waterval Boven is like a trendy backpackers, plus it has four private double rooms below the old stone lodge.

The chateau has three rooms each with six bunk beds, duvets and pillows (no towels) and a bathroom with three showers and river pebbles on the floor.

The lounge has beanbags, a roof fan and a fireplace, the kitchen is well stocked and outside is a deck made of railway sleepers. It's possible to book out the lodge for groups. Book the lodge and Tranquilitas through Roc 'n Rope.

The country getaway of Tegwaan (0826021355) with two attractive cottages, and the two railway sandstone cottages of Fruwink (0828802221) are also fine self-catering options.

. CAMPING FOOD

Even though Boven is on the Highlanders Meander, it is not gentrified enough to have coffee shops or restaurants like Dullstroom. This means we usually cook, or braai, for ourselves, although you can eat out at the Boven Trout Lodge or Stone Circle Bistro in town. On special occasions with advance booking Alex from Roc 'n Rope, who is a talented French cook, will cater meals.

. CONTACTS

For accommodation, climbing trips or courses, contact Roc 'n Rope on 0132570363 or 0827533695. E-mail climb@rocrope.com or visit www.rocrope.com.

. RATES

Tranquilitas: Camping R60 per person per night; safari tents R320 per night. Chalets R550 per night.

The Climbers' Lodge: R80 per person per night self-catering; R170 per night for a double room.

. GETTING THERE

From Jo'burg, follow signs to Emalahleni (Witbank) on the N4. Just after Machadodorp, about 260km from Jo'burg, pass through a tollgate. Next take the Waterval Boven exit on your right. Pass under a bridge into town. At the third stop sign, find Roc 'n Rope Adventures (53 Third Avenue).