Weekend Escape: The wood for the trees

19 February 2012 - 02:28 By Richard Holmes
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Richard Holmes visits a Cape nature reserve for some leafy inspiration

A long the N2 west of Knysna, the indigenous forests that once covered the Langeberg with a shag-pile of stinkwood, yellowwood and ironwood are mostly long gone - chopped down and turned into furniture, or flattened for farmland. Though there remain rare pockets, like Grootvadersbosch.

Turn back the clock to 1723 and one Roelof Oelofse owned these gently rolling hills. Old Roelof was known as the "Groot Vader" and the name - like the patches of forest - passed down through the generations. Most were felled and carted away, but 250ha remain, harbouring 35 species of indigenous trees that offer shade to a network of walking trails that meander below the treetops.

At the end of the valley, the path diverges, but make sure you wander down the fork leading to the Duiwenhoks River. A wide pool of dark, tannin-stained water offers the perfect antidote to a hot Overberg afternoon.

When the heat relents, the canopy comes alive with bird chatter. Keep your voices down and your ears open for Knysna warblers, olive woodpeckers and forest canaries. Well, those and the other 193 bird species recorded here. The best place to tick them off your twitching list is from the two fantastic bird hides built high in the forest canopy.

As the path emerges from the leafy gloaming, send your gaze upwards and marvel at the impressive California redwoods, planted a century ago to renew the forests the woodcutters trucked away.

"Ambassadors from another time," John Steinbeck called these Sequoia sempervirens, suggesting: "The vainest, most slap-happy and irreverent of men, in the presence of redwoods, goes under a spell of wonder and respect."

I'm inclined to agree. For as exotic as they may be, and although CapeNature has plans to fell them once and for all, they're a marvellous sight. I think old Roelof would be rather proud of these grandfathers of the forest.

IF YOU GO

WHERE IT IS: 30km from Swellendam,  far enough from the N2 to feel hidden away, but close enough to barrel out from Cape Town on a Friday night.

WHY GO THERE: What’s not to love about wandering along pathways under the high umbrella of a cool, quiet forest? Or, in the morning before the sun gets going, step out along the well-marked trails that crisscross fynbos-covered hills. Towering above you are the impossibly high peaks of the Langeberg, all craggy and alluring. Except they’re not impossible, as the rucksack-toting hikers setting off for the adjoining Boosmansbos Wilderness Area will tell you.

WHAT IT OFFERS: Scolopia is a comfortable two-bedroom wooden cottage situated right on the forest edge, making it an excellent place to watch birds with braai tongs in hand. The cottage — which sleeps six in two rooms — has a fully equipped kitchen and a fireplace in the living room.

However, I prefer the campsites alongside the reserve’s offices. The 10 level and grassy sites (no caravans allowed) have their own power points (but that’s kind of breaking the rules, isn’t it?) and share a spotlessly clean ablution block.

There’s a thatched lapa for rainy evenings and — happy days! — a communal fridge to chill your beers while you’re out walking. Remember to take your own braai grid.

WHAT IT’S LIKE: A low-key escape where the kids will form gangs and rush off to stroke the horses (or get up to mischief), while the adults settle into their camping chairs and crack another cold one. If you have energy left after a day wandering the woods, there’s a wide grassy patch that has Frisbee written all over it. There are also short mountain bike trails well worth a pedal.

AND THE FOOD: Well, that’s up to you. You’ll need to bring everything along, but nearby Swellendam is well stocked if you forget the boerewors. South Africa’s third-oldest town, historic Swellendam also makes an excellent day outing if the kids fail to see what’s so exciting about a bunch of trees.

While you’re there, stop in at The Old Gaol on Church Square coffee shop (opposite the impressive Moederkerk) for their legendary roosterkoek. They also bake a fine old-school melktert.

RATES: Scolopia cottage costs R640-R960 (depending on season) per night for up to four people. Campsites cost R220 for up to six people. A conservation fee of R30/R15 (adult/children 3-12) is also payable.

GETTING THERE: Follow the N2 from Cape Town. 11km beyond Swellendam, turn onto the R324. Follow the R324 for about 20km through the village of Suurbraak and past the turn-off to the Tradouw Pass. Once the road turns to gravel, follow the CapeNature signs to Grootvadersbosch.

CONTACT: Visit www.capenature.co.za or call 0214830190.

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