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Sat May 25 20:49:13 SAST 2013

Girls Gone Wild: Dive-in at Durban's aquarium

Claire Keeton & Marianne Schwankhart | 01 April, 2012 00:49

Claire Keeton and Marianne Schwankhart check out uShaka Marine World in Durban

Ushaka Marine World is a kids' paradise. And for adults who like to play and are curious about what's under the ocean, like Marianne and me, it's worth a trip.

The biggest aquarium and steepest water slide in the Southern hemisphere, shark diving and ocean walking are among the attractions of the marine park.

Before we even got our entry stamp, however, we encountered dragon-like lizards at the exotic Dangerous Creatures exhibit in the Village Walk, next to uShaka.

A green iguana with sharp teeth and frilly pouches came over to inspect our feet and we were allowed into the enclosure of two carnivorous black-throated monitor lizards, who flicked out their tongues to touch our hands.

Marianne and I are fascinated by non-venomous snakes so the herpetologist Lesley Labuschagne fetched a boa constrictor from their Zanzibar warehouse for us to hold. This large snake slithered across our arms and shoulders.

Then we moved onto the marine park, starting our visit at the water slides. UShaka has an impressive range with the steepest being the 18m "Drop Zone".

I decided to try all three steep and fast slides. But first Marianne and I started slow, bouncing in red tubes down the Zoom Zoom five-lane racer. Then I climbed the stairs of a tower that gives access to the high slides.

When you reach the slide you want, you get into position, holding onto a horizontal bar, and let go. These slides are fun. Though they are over quickly, you can go as many times as you wish. We did not have to queue since we were there on a weekday.

We also took a double tube and twisted down the whitewater of "Dizzy Duzi" into the river channel that flows through the park. We floated along for 450m, past penguins and fish tanks, and then it was time for our ocean walk.

This experience gives people with no scuba diving or snorkelling experience the opportunity to go about 3m below the surface.

Picture an astronaut on the moon and that will give you an impression of how surreal this looks. For the ocean walk, you wear a bell-like helmet, which rests on your shoulders, into which is piped oxygen from the surface through tubes.

Before you start, you get a safety briefing, sign indemnity forms, then you are fitted with a rash vest (typically used by surfers) with padded shoulders and booties to protect your feet.

In our group, we met two adventurous women from Soweto, who had done the shark dive before doing the ocean walk.

"I have been bitten by the adrenaline bug," said Lerato Sedibe, 26.

Once we got to the tank, we had the helmet placed onto our shoulders and descended one by one down a ladder into the water.

During the descent, we had to keep unblocking our ears like you do when you're diving. On the bottom, we stayed to one side of the tank as instructed.

We saw sting rays and an array of fish including Barracuda and soon our time was up.

"Being up close with the fish was amazing," said Lerato and her friend Bonolo Mokua agreed.

Still cold from being underwater, I set out for the shark enclosure to do a shark dive. I was lucky enough to be the only participant and the sharks and brindle bass soon distracted me from the cold. You climb into a cage and get dragged on a pulley to the middle of the tank in which ragged tooth, white-tip reef, dusky and sand sharks are circling.

The top of the cage is above the surface so it's easy to breathe and you stay under for as long as you can hold your breath.

You are warned not to put your fingers through the cage, inside of which are rails you can use to submerge yourself.

It felt peaceful to lie there and watch the sharks, none of which was interested in me. This was nothing like the cage diving in the ocean in Mossel Bay or Gansbaai, where Great Whites lunge towards you, but it is also a remarkable opportunity to observe sharks in their element.

Ushaka has a large aquarium - designed around four shipwrecks - with many exhibits and tanks.

Apart from the displays, ocean walk and shark dive, you can interact with dolphins and watch a dolphin show or watch the penguins and rays being fed.

Ushaka has enough options to keep any member of a family entertained.

And what adds to its appeal is that, through the fence, you can see the sea and appreciate that this is where the creatures you are observing truly belong, and that they need to be protected for future generations.

If you go ...

(GREEN) FISH & CHIPS: For lunch at uShaka we had fresh hake and chips from Gambit's, an outdoor takeaway restaurant with fare that's fast, fresh and good.

Those who are concerned about the depletion of fish stocks can check by SMSing the fish name to the SASSI FishMS line on 079499 8795. Red alert is a warning not to eat it, orange signals caution and green means you don't need to think twice. Standard SMS rates apply.

USHAKA RATES: You can buy the following tickets for uShaka: Sea World for the aquarium; Wet 'n Wild for the waterworld (both of these are R110 for adults and R85 for kids aged 3 -12); or Combo for both (adults R149, children R110). More details at www.ushakamarineworld.co.za.

The shark-cage experience is R150 per person. The Ocean Walk is R100 per person.

WHERE TO STAY: My favourite place to stay in Durban is a stylish and comfortable self-catering establishment on the hill in Morningside, called Shark's View. It has two distinct options, both with airconditioning and free wifi.

The Studio is spacious, with a large bedroom and a roof fan. It also has a well-equipped kitchen, a living area with satellite TV, a DVD player and a small study area. The ensuite bathroom has a shower. The studio opens onto a pool patio with a braai.

The Loft is more like a writer's aerie with a distant view of the ocean. It has a slanting roof and a bed with a skylight above. The bath in the ensuite bathroom has a view, and there's a shower. The lounge has satellite TV and the kitchen has everything you need.

Both apartments are serviced every day and have safe off-street parking.

*Claire and Marianne were guests of Shark's View on this trip. Claire has been a paying guest on previous visits

RATES: R750 per night.

CONTACT: Ruth Behr on 012 341 8554 or 082 388 0100.

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