Plump delight often overlooked in upper-crust circles

28 November 2012 - 02:06 By Andrea Burgener

Andre Burgener has been immersed in all things food since she took over the making of the family's lunch box sandwiches aged eight (her mom could make a mean creme brulee and a staggering souffle, but could never butter the bread all the way to the edges.


EVER since the 1990s, it's been hard to leave your house without falling over a piece of ciabatta or focaccia.

Nothing wrong with either of these two fine breads, but our sheep-like adoption of any food that seems fashionable means we miss out on great alternatives. So, just for once, dump the ciabatta and wallow in the plump floury wonderfulness that is bolo de caco. I've always had a very soft spot for this (it was originally a Madeira loaf), and was delighted when I spotted it at my local Parkview greengrocer, which now brings it in fresh every Saturday morning.

The bolo de caco is flattish, round and made moist with sweet potato.

It can be found in most places where Lusitanian [from Iberia] and Afro-Lusitanian food is on offer, so head to Troyeville, La Rochelle and surrounds, or nag your local greengrocer or deli to procure some.

Traditionally baked on a stone surface (the name translates to something close to stone-cake), the top and bottom have a floury coaly blackened-ness which is almost pizza-crust like, but softer. Tear off pieces and use them to mop up meat juices, soup or salad dressings. Just on its own it's pretty good too (the guys at our greengrocer stash some away in the office, where I can see them pulling off plain chunks while working).

The next day, use it to make the best garlic bread you'll ever eat.


A recent foray downtown for all manner of bead, bauble and taffeta skein for a dear friend's Bollywood wedding landed us in the coolness of Little Addis for lunch.

This three-storey building - home to dozens of East African businesses - has always harboured one or two eateries in its folds, and right now it is the Bersufekad Resturant (sic) on the second floor that you should head to. It's the biggest restaurant in the building yet, and may be a little louder than its predecessors.

As you sit there on lovely, old wooden chairs surrounded by the glossy manilla walls, ceiling fans going, traffic noise creeping up onto the verandah through the French doors, feasting on a massive plate of injera bread studded with glorious little stews (wats), you feel as if you live in the best city in the world.

If feeling bold, go for the tartare options, which are severely fresh, and cut only on order, which is more than I can say for many a larney suburban restaurant. Never leave without a tiny cup of their unbelievably good coffee. It has triple the flavour of any other coffee, but also triple the strength, so watch out. Bersufekad is at 220 Jeppe Street (Old Medical Arts Building), CBD, call 076-763-5890.