Where to watch whales with a splash of luxury

From boutique wine cellars to inspiring chefs at seasonal restaurants, there are many good reasons to explore the Western Cape’s Overberg region. But in the springtime, it’s one thing that draws most visitors to the rugged coastline east of Hermanus: the long-awaited arrival of Southern Right whales who arrive to calve and cavort offshore.

If you’re planning on taking a marine safari this spring, make sure you do it in style at one of these four fine Cape coastal escapes:

Birkenhead House, Hermanus

Hermanus has long claimed to be one of the world’s best spots for whale watching, and from the terrace of Birkenhead House you’ll be inclined to agree. The town is a hub for boat-based whale-watching and the sinuous cliff path offers a breath of fresh air and plenty of opportunities for spotting a few lobtails. But you’ll be hard-pressed to leave the embrace of Birkenhead House, part of the design-driven The Royal Portfolio.

Owner Liz Biden never lets her properties go untouched for long, so little wonder Birkenhead has enjoyed a nip/tuck just in time for whale season.

It’s a refresh, not a reboot, and there are subtle design tweaks everywhere you look. The Marrakesh and white exterior tones have been brightened, splashes of Biden’s trademark colour enhanced, and furniture detailing tweaked. There’s a new look to the pool terrace — the best spot for whale spotting — and the conservatory has been updated with a riotous nature-focused feel with bold green and white stripes, and tall pots with feathery ferns. One of the most elegant coastal bolt-holes just got even better.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, De Kelders

Perched on a hillside above the shores of Walker Bay, Grootbos is most famous for its flower safaris, delving into the diversity of the Cape Floral Kingdom. But in spring there’s equal focus on the whales.

With its elevated aspect you can happily pick up binoculars and watch the Southern Rights from the balcony of your private suite, but it’s worth lacing up your walking shoes for the daily nature walks led by the talented Grootbos guides. Exploring the cliffs of nearby De Kelders, you’ll tap into the mysteries of this marine ecosystem, from the coastal fynbos to the cetaceans that hang about just offshore. 

When you’re done, there’s plenty of luxe on offer at the pair of Grootbos lodges. Garden Lodge is the more family-friendly option, with wide lawns and a pool, while Forest Lodge is a sophisticated choice best suited to couples. Wherever you stay, don’t miss a visit to the new spa set beneath ancient Milkwood forests near Forest lodge. With a trio of treatment rooms, inspired treatment menu and state-of-the-art gym, you can weave some wellness into a whale of a weekend.

Lekkerwater Beach Lodge, De Hoop Nature Reserve

De Hoop Nature Reserve may be a bit of a drive from Cape Town, but this 34,000ha reserve is justifiably famous for — what I’d say — is the best shore-based whale-watching in South Africa. That’s thanks to the De Hoop Marine Protected Area that stretches offshore, ensuring the hundreds of whales that congregate here in spring can provide a non-stop show of lob-tailing, spy-hopping and breaching without being disturbed.

One of my favourite places to take in the spectacle is Lekkerwater Beach Lodge, a gloriously remote luxury lodge run by conservation-minded lodge operator Natural Selection. Set on a private concession in the remote eastern reaches of the reserve, you’ll enjoy exclusive access to long stretches of empty beach, with views shared by only seven oceanfront suites.

Days are spent on guided interpretive walks through the indigenous fynbos or exploring the intertidal rock pools, relaxing with a beach picnic or scanning the waves for whales from the restaurant’s wide terrace.

Hot tip: be sure to book a session in the private wood-fired hot-tub perched just above the high-tide mark.

Morukuru Ocean House, De Hoop Nature Reserve

Further west within De Hoop, the dunes of Koppie Alleen offer an ideal vantage point for day visitors to the reserve, with well-marked paths exploring the tidal pools at low tide.

Look inland and you’ll see Morukuru Ocean House and realise why this is one of the most striking seaside escapes in the Cape.

Booked only on an exclusive-use basis, this four-bedroom coastal villa offers endless views out to sea from the spacious suites and expansive living areas. It’s been designed in a contemporary coastal motif, with acres of glass to let the views wash in, and considered design touches that lend a sense of homely luxury to the space. It’s also a villa that’s sustainable by design, from energy-efficiency in cooling and lighting to the sensitive architectural aesthetic and use of local stone and reclaimed materials.

While you could spend your days relaxing at the rooftop pool (a prime whale-spotting option), the house staff are adept at getting the whole family out and active, from sandboarding the dunes to a game of beach cricket. Best of all, come sunset the day-trippers will have left and you’ll have those last golden hours of whale-watching all to yourself.

Wanted.