Colombia on a plate: a culinary journey with chef Nilton Castro Rios

11 November 2024 - 12:00 By sandisiwe mbhele
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A berry cheesecake tart.
A berry cheesecake tart.
Image: Sandi Mbhele

Colombian cuisine is a reflection of the country's diverse landscapes and rich cultural history. From the highlands of Bogotá to the coastal flavours of Barranquilla, the nation’s culinary traditions are as varied as its geography.

On a recent trip to Corona Island I had the pleasure of meeting Nilton Castro Rios, a Venezuelan-born chef with deep Colombian and Ethiopian roots whose passion for Colombian ingredients and sustainability left a lasting impression. 

He said his passion for Colombia's distinctive ingredients is at the heart of his culinary approach.

“This meat is used in so many different dishes,” he explained, referring to pork, a staple in Colombian cuisine, specially in hearty stews and soups.

Colombia’s diverse regions and climates offer him a bounty of fresh produce to experiment with, shaping the flavours he incorporates into his dishes. Each region brings its own influence, allowing him to celebrate the country’s rich gastronomic heritage. 

On the island where chef Rios works, his team are committed to sourcing 70% to 75% of their ingredients locally.

“This is achieved by choosing the best distributors, not only for quality, but for what we can get fresh and in season,” he said.

The dedication to fresh, local ingredients extends to every meal, ensuring dishes are as flavourful and as authentic as possible. Despite the varying climates across the country, Rios rarely faces difficulties in finding the high-quality ingredients he needs, thanks to the country’s agricultural abundance.

A serving of rich squid ink pasta with salmon.
A serving of rich squid ink pasta with salmon.
Image: Sandisiwe Mbhele

As Colombia’s culinary landscape continues to evolve, Rios emphasised the growing recognition of local chefs on the global stage. 

“There’s been a gastronomical evolution in Colombia. We’re beginning to step away from European herbs such as thyme and rosemary and embrace more local flavours such as cilantro, cumin and oregano,” he noted.

The shift has given rise to a renewed focus on truly Colombian cuisine, specially in high-end restaurants. 

A glimpse of this was evident when Rios created a menu for about 20 guests with little knowledge of Colombian cuisine. He led us on a delectable journey, blending international techniques with local ingredients and creating dishes that showcased the best of both worlds.

“The idea was to have a trip around the world through gastronomy,” he said.  

Whether it was perfectly grilled fish, rich squid ink pasta with salmon, delicate carpaccio or indulgent desserts such as berry cheesecake and coconut tart, each dish was beautifully plated and thoughtfully crafted in flavour and design. The globally inspired dishes included seafood paella from Spain, wood-fired pizzas from Italy — which we made ourselves — Argentinian and Colombian BBQ-inspired grill, reminiscent of South Africa’s beloved braai, and, of course, Asian cuisine. 

A fun twist on classic favourites.
A fun twist on classic favourites.
Image: Sandisiwe Mbhele

We also savoured Colombian classics such as patacones — flattened and fried plantains —served alongside our meals, and we indulged in empanadas, savoury pastries with fillings that vary by region. In Bogotá, they’re made with potato and beef, while in Santander green beans and chickpeas fill the delicious pockets. Whether fried or baked, each bite carried the flavours of its local origins. Rios revealed Corona beer was subtly infused into some dishes throughout our meals, enhancing the pizza doughs, breads, marinades and sauces with its delicate flavour.  

Beyond the mouthwatering dishes, chef Rios wove sustainability into every aspect of his cooking. Aware of the competition from nearby islands and beach clubs, their goal is to stand out through sustainable fishing practices, avoiding luxury choices such as lobster and octopus in favour of more popular, responsibly-sourced fish to prevent overfishing. 

There are plans in the future to use hydroponics, a method of growing plants without soil in nutrient-rich water. For fishing, it’s called aquaponics, which combines the two systems where fish and plants thrive.

“It’s a perfect cycle where the vegetables feed the fish and the fish feed the water,” said Rios.  

When asked what drew him to work with Corona, Rios smiled. “I was attracted to the type of clients who would come here, the creative freedom and, of course, working on an island.”

The island’s mission of combining sustainable living with a memorable guest experience resonated deeply with him. It was more than a culinary adventure, it was about leaving a lasting impact on the guests and the environment. 


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