A skin journey for the premenopausal or menopausal woman

Tell me, as a menopausal woman (and babe, no need to deny it, we all watched the movie Mirror Mirror, the 2012 take-off of the Snow White fairytale starring Julia Roberts and Lily Collins) that you haven't seen yourself as Roberts' Evil Queen character who, competing with the youthful beauty of Snow White, indulges in an over-the-top facial treatment to restore her youth.

The dramatic spa experience, with all its potions and mysterious procedures (bee stung lips, snake fanged cheeks and scorpion stung forehead), might make you think beauty treatments are for the gullible.

The Queen, confronted with a younger, hotter, more socially acceptable version of her former self, is willing to try anything to chase eternal youth but, in reality, though we'll never regain the exact version of the skin we had as teenagers, finding the right treatment to rejuvenate your skin is possible, and requires a thoughtful and personal approach.

When you take into account the unique challenges and concerns we face on a daily basis, at each stage of our lives it helps to have someone knowledgeable on your side to help you look the best version of you possible.

I was invited by the team at Skin Renewal to experience a customised treatment plan to effectively address my skin conditions and, by sharing my journey and results, empower other women facing similar challenges to rediscover their best selves  without having to resort, like the Evil Queen, to a bird-dropping face mask, bee stung lips as an instant volumiser, or a horrific harness-like undergarment to squeeze into my old dress size.

How do you choose which treatment is best for you? It’s not as simple as following a beauty trend or picking something that promises miraculous results.

At Skin Renewal I was taken through an initial thorough consultation to discuss the nature of my skin, its needs and concerns, which was paramount in identifying the most effective path forward. My skin journey revolved around dealing with melasma, pigmentation and the inevitable signs of ageing, most noticeable when you hit the peri-menopausal phase of life, which includes volume loss under the eyes and discoloured skin, two common ageing concerns, particularly for women living in sunny climates like South Africa. 

She feels me: knowing my skin's needs

The Skin Renewal journey started with meeting the doctor. Any skincare professional should perform a lengthy inquiry with you before recommending treatments, and it is important to ask to see your beauty therapist's credentials before you go ahead with anything she recommends.

My skin journey with Dr Maureen Allem, founder and medical director of Skin Renewal, began with a careful hour-long analysis of my skin concerns: pigmentation, such as melasma, a common skin issue that's caused by sun exposure, hormonal changes and genetics.

Melasma is something many women struggle with. It leaves dark patches on the skin, across the forehead, cheeks or upper lip, creating an uneven skin tone that can be frustrating to try cover up. 

The under eye area is one of the first places where volume loss becomes noticeable. Skin under the eyes becomes thinner and less resilient, leading to hollowing and the appearance of dark circles. Add to that fine lines and sagging and it’s no wonder the  Evil Queen will undergo almost anything to remain presentable.

Finding solutions: pigmentation and melasma

When it comes to treating pigmentation or melasma, specially in peri-menopause or in menopause, one of the first lines of defence is sun protection. Broad-spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen is non-negotiable for anyone dealing with hyperpigmentation, as UV rays can worsen the spots and cause further discoloration. However, sunscreen alone isn't enough to solve the problem. For melasma, a more in-depth treatment plan is necessary to break down the excess melanin and improve the skin’s texture.

Consulting with a skin care professional like Allem is key to determining which treatment is best to address melasma in the most effective way.

At Skin Renewal I was treated with their proprietary PicoBrite Solution, which included Pico toning and Pico fractional together with their Mesobrite Solution.

Pico toning is a cutting-edge laser treatment that uses ultra-short laser pulses. It's an advanced technique designed to enhance collagen production and disperse melanin clusters in the skin, which smooths skin texture and boosts tone but also effectively diminishes the visibility of imperfections, promoting an even and vibrant skin tone.

Combining the powerful Picotoning Laser by Vydence, Pico Fractional Laser and MCCM MelanoOut Mask, the comprehensive treatment targeted and reduced my skin discolouration. Pico fractional laser also improved my hormonal pigmentation,  and repaired the leaky basement membrane between the epidermis and dermis which allows pigmentation to leak into the dermis, as Allem explained. The pico fractional laser has an acoustic effect which breaks down deep dermal melasma into tiny pieces which the immune system can then remove.

My home maintenance included Melanout maintenance cream and Kligmans Luma, which contains hydroquinone, the gold standard for pigmentation.

Anti-aging and volume loss: restoring a youthful glow

Turning back the clock on aging doesn’t require you to reverse every line or wrinkle, but to address the loss of volume that contributes to the aging process. Under eye hollows and sagging makes me look tired and old, even when I'm feeling energetic and young.

To combat the volume loss under eyes, I underwent treatments in the HydraTouch 5 phase facial, which included carboxy therapy on my face and neck, concentrating on the eyes, and Laser Genesis 15000 and Photo Dynamic Light Therapy (PDT) and chemical peels

Carboxy therapy

The non-invasive treatment uses medical grade carbon dioxide to naturally rejuvenate the skin. It's specially good for dark under eye circles. Infusions of carbon dioxide are injected beneath the skin.

It's not comfortable, but it's definitely not painful and the results, stimulation of blood flow and improved skin elasticity, justified any squeamishness I had about about the cold sensation of gas dispersing beneath my epidermis.

The introduction of carbon dioxide gas triggers a response in the body known as the Bohr effect, which leads to the dilation of blood vessels, increasing blood flow to the treated area. Improved blood circulation helps deliver oxygen, nutrients and growth factors to the skin, promoting cellular rejuvenation and collagen production.

Collagen stimulation promotes the production of collagen, a protein responsible for maintaining skin structure and elasticity. Increased collagen synthesis can help plump the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Carbon dioxide encourages the release of oxygen from red blood cells in the treated area. The localised oxygenation can enhance cell metabolism and promote tissue regeneration, resulting in smoother, more youthful-looking skin.

Carboxy therapy stimulates the formation of new blood vessels, a process known as neovascularisation. Increased vascularisation helps supply the skin with essential nutrients and oxygen, aiding in its overall health and rejuvenation.

Laser and PDT

Through the heating of the deep dermis, fibroblasts are stimulated to form new collagen and elastin and restore a much more youthful appliance to the skin.

Radiance peel

Is a a combination of salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and calming ingredients such as willow bark and liquorice root. Salicylic acid is comedolytic, a fancy word which means it unplugs dead skin cells and built-up oils. It is desmolytic and has an exfoliation effect on skin cells through disrupting intercellular connections and it is anti-inflammatory.

The foundation of great skin as you age

My treatment plan also included health coaching sessions with Dr Maurits Kruger at Skin Renewal every two weeks, four sessions of 30 minutes each.

Kruger took me through the foundational pillars of health, concentrating on my concerns and empowering me with knowledge to take control of my health.

My main concerns are stress from a demanding job, oestrogen dominance, not enough sleep (I go  to bed late and don't get enough restorative sleep) and being premenopausal. The team at Skin Renewal impressed on me that it's not enough to treat damaged skin. It's important for me to address my lifestyle to prevent my skin deteriorating. 

Choosing the right treatment: consultation and patience

After going through part of the skin journey with Allem, the best advice I can offer anyone embarking on their own skin renewal journey is to prioritise education and patience. While treatments like Botox, fillers or chemical peels may seem like quick fixes, real and lasting results come from understanding your skin's unique needs and working with professionals to create a customised treatment plan.

Always consult with a qualified aesthetician who can analyse your skin type, assess the degree of pigmentation or volume loss, and recommend a combination of treatments that will work together for your skin’s best health and appearance.

It’s also important to remember skincare is an ongoing commitment, and results may take time to fully manifest. Be patient, and don’t be discouraged by slow progress. Healthy, glowing skin is a marathon, not a sprint. Beauty isn't about chasing perfection. It’s about embracing the journey and finding confidence in your skin, wherever you are along the way.