Last-minute Durban July outfit? Here's Phupho Gumede's top styling tips

With a career defined by breathtaking stills and red carpet looks, Phupho Gumede does not just turn heads for what he wears but how he has helped curate striking ensembles that define South African style.

As one of the Hollywood Bets Durban July ambassadors, we find out from Gumede how best to rock the “Made in Mzansi” theme and his thoughts on the local fashion industry.

What can fans look forward to in what you will wear and dress your clients in?

We are kicking it up a notch this year. We're going to showcase artistic pieces with 3D elements between me and the people I'm styling. While I don't want to say I've been ahead of the game, I feel I've been ahead of the curve until the curve became a spear, so this is a continuation of trying to figure out what's next.

What were your thoughts about this year's theme?

I was a bit confused the first time I heard it and, after some time, I realised this is a broad theme. If you miss it, it's by choice.

I love that people can celebrate all things local, especially after the recent march by South African fashion designers to encourage the government to review laws about buying and supporting local designs. It's not only a fashion theme but also a sociopolitical conversation.

Does the Durban July prove we are ready for Mzansi's own Met Gala?

There's only one Met Gala and we should not fantasise or flirt with the idea of different regions around the world having an event of that stature. The Durban July echoes what a Met Gala is, but it's not structured in the same way. When it comes to how people show up, it echoes that stature.

South African stars get a lot of flak in comparison to other international stars, especially Nollywood's fashionistas. Having dressed so many of these stars in and out of the country, do you think it's a fair judgment?

I do not think the Nigerian fashion industry is greater than South Africa's. Do celebrities on the red carpet in Nigeria dress better than those in South Africa? For sure, but celebrities on the red carpet are not a reflection of a fashion industry.

There are a lot of factors at play to make what can be titled a fashion industry, such as the retail environment, manufacturers, quality control, fashion media and platforms such as fashion weeks. The value chain, from pre-manufacturing to garment resting is much broader in South Africa than it is in Nigeria. As someone who has been a few times to Nigeria and has a few friends in the industry and understands how it works there, there's definitely a broader difference. However, the Nigerian public put a lot more intention into their looks. 

Take, for example, last year's Bridgerton Ball. We had a few Nigerians come to the ball and they had already shot images for what they were going to wear. That is how far they are willing to go for their looks, while some of our South African stars were probably still getting the finishing stitches to their outfits on the day of the event. It's about intention, that is why it reflects more on the red carpets of Nigerian stars.

Any tips for those who have last-minute outfit changes or haven't picked a look yet?

First, you should know yourself in how far you are willing to push. Whether it's comfort or revealing clothing, you need to know yourself and reflect it in your outfit. I can carry an uncomfortable look throughout the day without anyone picking it up, but if you know you cannot, it will show and it can affect your confidence levels.

Second, stay on theme. South Africans have become strict about themes. Get a stylist to help you interpret and put the look together. There's a reason it's a stylist's job. When I was young there used to be this ad that said “get an adult to help you”, so get an adult to help you.

If you could pick a theme for the next Durban July, what would it be?

I'm working on my third original fashion event titled “Truth or Dare: Fashion's Fascination with Mythology”. It would be great to see how everyone interprets that. Fashion and mythology have always been intertwined, from Versace's Medusa to Dolce & Gabanna's aesthetic. Fashion has always borrowed from mythical creatures and stories. Even in Africa we have things such as ibhayi, which is tied to spirituality.