Behind the seams: Cultural conservation and power suits from ‘Inimba’

Since its debut, Inimba has brought a fresh approach to the telenovela genre in South Africa.

Created by award-winning filmmaker Siphosethy Tshapu, it follows Zoleka Bikitsha (played by Lunathi Mampofu), who returns to South Africa after 20 years to reunite with her estranged daughter and bury her late father. Things take a turn when she learns her former lover has not told the daughter they left behind who she is. Instead that role has been played by her cousin Thumeka (played by Zenande Mfenyane).

The cast also includes Siyabonga Shibe, who plays Sydney, the corporate rival to Zoleka.

After its big wedding episode on screens on October 10, we find out what went into creating the outfits from costume designer Vuyo Mokwena, who also relays the role culture played in portraying each lead character in the series.

What drew you to costuming the cast of Inimba?

What we have nowadays on TV are “I woke up like this” looks, so we don’t see people in cornrows because it needs to be TV-friendly and screen-ready looks. I saw that with the script. We can tell a real story with Inimba, that even if you are from Sandton, you can be as natural as possible. I could see the characters vividly. I have a mother who looks like them, a cousin, uncles who feel familiar. All the details are almost similar between different people. It allowed us to tell showcase the richness of the culture — not the version from Ingqumbo Yeminyanya but what we see in the expression of Xhosa culture.

Fans of the show were keen to see the wedding episode. What goes into wedding episodes on telenovelas? How hectic are the days on set?

They are hectic with a capital H. You cannot sleep until the episode airs. When this one is out, I will finally sleep.

With wedding episode, you have to make sure you don’t lose the character in how they look. I have to imagine what they would want to wear. You have to keep thinking about those things. Fortunately for this wedding I had a lovely lady from Zazi Clothing in the Eastern Cape. We sat down and designed what each character would wear. She brought pieces on and she came to the wedding.

Looking at the bride, Thumeka, she’s had quite the style shift. Can you tell us more about her journey?

From where she began and where she is now, she’s had different episodes in her life. When we started, she was coming from the Eastern Cape. S Jonine comes to Jozi all the way to being a wife, which was one look. When the husband left, she got a new look. When she started being independent again, it was another look. Now that she’s getting married and her husband is back, it’s another new look. She had a journey but she didn’t lose her roots.

How have fans reacted to her outfits?

I saw on Twitter someone said whoever’s dressing Thumeka “siyobonana emethunyeni (we will meet at the graveyards)”. But I know everyone in their family has a Thumeka.

It’s been a journey for her because it’s always been interesting how she’s not glam, she’s a Xhosa mama. We call them “mkhaya” or “mtase”, and even if you take her to Sandton, she can’t dilute the mtase from Cosmo City. Fortunately Zenande understood the character and when I showed her the costumes, she could see exactly what Thumeka would wear. We clicked about who Thumeka is and how she looks. I always try to rope in actors on their characters.

Let’s talk about the star of the show: Zoleka and her power suits.

We didn’t want her to look like any other soap queen we know. I wanted to find something unique. We had referenced an American style that wouldn’t be too clean. She needs to be a style icon. We took her back to varsity and the clothes she left there. With Lunathi Mampofu, you could put her in a black plastic bag and she would look good. With her look she can go to Sandton, she can go to Mall of Africa, she can go to any boutique and you will see who she is.

She goes for bold colours. What inspired the choice of bringing in colour to a character who wears so many suits and takes herself so seriously?

All the fiery colours brought life to her return. She was fighting for her daughter and bringing a new energy into the Khusela firm. Eventually we had all those reds. When you look at Oprah, she had all that colour blocking, the experimenting with different textures. I looks like something you can wear going to the mall or the office. It’s like London, where their streetwear is runway-inspired. It’s something you are wowed by and you aren’t quite sure how to mix it together but it works for the person wearing it.

When you watch Tyler Perry movies, you will see you can mix your pinks with reds or orange with yellow and you wouldn’t think I would not look classy. With Zoleka we experimented with a lot of colours and it worked because of the quality of our cameras, sets and everything we have on the show. She pops out nicely. She doesn’t have the South African look, she’s unique.

One would expect a character like Sydney to resemble blessers but he is more innovative.

I’ve worked with Siyabonga way back in the day. I would watch how they dress him and I needed to bring another eye. He’s played Zulu guys they put in leather jackets, he’s been in T-shirts and suited looks. I wanted to see what I can put him in that will look different. Safari suits have been timeless in Africa. Politicians always have a safari suit. We tailor-made his stuff to suit his body. When he saw it he wasn’t sure but when he put it on he was “I think I must change my style”.

As someone who is in a professional setting as the former acting CEO, I didn’t want him in suits all the time. Most of my inspiration came from politicians such as [ANC secretary-general] Fikile Mbalula. Whenever you wear a safari suit, you have a militant presence. There’s a power in it.

How did you approach the young cast, especially with the pressure that comes with posts on social media that critique how young characters are portrayed on TV.

I’ve have nephews and nieces to refer to but I wanted to see what they are wearing. You can Google it but it’s not the same as being at the mall and seeing youngsters in different forms. I know where they’re shopping, with places such as Mr Price and Cotton On having bold statements. With the “Get Ready With Me” trends on TikTok, you can see what they like and translate it with the ones we have.

There’s a lot of accuracy in the cultural looks — did you have room to play around with how they look?

If it’s something cultural such as ketshemiya (traditional clothes worn by brides), I try to be as precise as possible to respect people’s cultures. If you are a Xhosa from Gauteng, you will always have an aunt who you can ask what we put with certain things. We had a lot of those where we sat with our writers, so we could have one voice.

Spihosethy Xapha [head writer and creator] has an idea in his mind and how the makhthi would be dressed. They are dressed differently in different clans so with the Mabandlas, who are abaThembu, we have to follow the direction.

When I was putting together references of what we could use, I noticed the makotis are using great ityalis (checkered blankets typically used by Xhosa brides). It shows how culture has evolved. I know when people see it on Thumeka, they will love it.

The cast are all cultural people. Everyone chips in on how to be culturally accurate.

Any tips to keep cultural wear alive in workplaces outside of Heritage Day?

I look at my outfit to check it represents South Africa. Whether it’s a necklace, a bracelet or a T-shirt with a South African flag I always look for something that will ground me to our beautiful cultures.

I never wear cultural clothes on Heritage Day. Why must it be one day? Are my roots only worth one day? On any day, you can wear something cultural. With formal clothes you can put something on your wrists that shows how proud you are of your culture.