A-LISTERS | Mamma mia! New/old eatery lives up to the hype

There are two sorts of top-tier restaurants: ones that snag all the posts for their gilded interiors and photo-ready plates, and the unpretentious and understated havens that put good, honest ingredients and taste at their core.

Tortellino d’Oro has built a golden reputation for the latter — tucked away in the nondescript Oaklands Shopping Centre, it has drawn a following among both nonnas and the city’s powerbrokers for its authentic Italian flavour and rustic charm.

But when news spread that Caterina Bollini and son Lorenzo were expanding by setting up shop inside a sparkling new R1bn shopping node, the question on everyone’s lips was: will the family-run restaurant tilt towards the Instagram pack? And, mamma mia! Would they tinker with the menu?

To find out, I headed to the Sandton Gate precinct, just off Winnie Mandela (formerly William Nicol) Drive between Sandton and Bryanston, for the opening of the new offshoot.

Big sigh of relief when, on arrival, waiters proffered trays of familiar fare like suppli di riso (not to be confused with arancini balls, these are made with rice cooked in tomato sauce with a gooey mozzarella centre), crescentines (light and fluffy fried dough pillows filled with ham), and melanzane parmigiana, served in bite-sized squares on mini saucers.

While Caterina is hugging guests in between checking up on the kitchen, up comes her son to welcome me, a bright young spark dressed nattily in an aubergine-coloured pinstripe suit.

We all later learn that it was Lorenzo’s quick actions after his girlfriend spotted the Sandton Gate construction sign that secured their prime new location after his mom’s years-long search to fulfil her father Dante’s dream of opening a second “Tort”.

Only two months shy of completing his law degree at the University of Exeter in the UK, the 22-year-old has ensconced himself in the family business, including updating the wine list to ensure the tipples match the handmade pasta.

A quick scan of the outside décor (at this point in the evening, the actual restaurant was still soon to be revealed) and another sigh because, while modernised, the place retains the comforting rustic charm of Oaklands, which I was first introduced to many moons ago by the late legendary Sunday Times society columnist Gwen Gill.

Familiar faces abound: South African Style Awards-winning actress Makoma Mohale; Kimberly Dally, the founder of transport and logistics company U-Rent; society dame Peta Eggierth-Symes with her mate Yolanda Kloppers; Carlton Hair master stylist Boyd Meilhon; and K Naomi with her husband, Tshepo Phakathi.

I meet Lynn Zidel, wife of property magnate Jeff, and Ming Allen, MD for JPMorgan Southern Africa.

Among the 300-plus guests I spot highly regarded corporate lawyer Michael Katz and brand comms ace Sylvester Chauke. Then in walks a couple, bodyguards in tow, whose tans are more St Tropez than Camps Bay.

That’s the always-so-chic Analisa and Adriano Mazzotti.

With the much-talked-about businessman and buddy of Julius Malema on a call, Analisa and I get chatting — and I wonder whether her striking blonde locks are still attended to by famed hair maestro David Gilson now that he has set up shop in Belgravia.

“Only when I am in London,” answers Analisa.

However, with two of the couple’s children living in the English capital these days, I’d wager that it’s a regular appointment.

On to the night’s proceedings, and as staff in their chef whites put together the finishing touches to a feast inside the restaurant, we are welcomed by the evening’s MC, Thulane Hadebe, before hearing from lifelong Tortellino d’Oro supporter (and racing enthusiast) Paolo Cavalieri, who reminds us that Tort is “a symbol and example of the value that expats bring to a community”.

Lorenzo, touchingly, recognises his mom for fulfilling her father’s dream (adding that beyond “exceeding everything that was expected of her — I promise you she will not stop here!”).

And when Caterina gets up to address us, she thanks her staff (some have been there from day one) and recognises the “old friends” and “new friends” gathered.

“Along this path, all of you we have met have become more than customers; you have become friends and family. Together we have shared many happy memories and also difficult moments, because that’s part of life. Through it all, we shared food, wine, together with laughter and sometimes tears. That is what Tortellino d’Oro is about,” she says.

When the doors are opened, more food, glorious food, awaits, this time served buffet-style so we can tuck in to our heart’s delight.

Parma ham and mortadella displayed on giant melon domes, a carvery brimming with freshly cut fillets and skinny lamb chops, giant langoustines, and salads including the restaurant’s signature parmesan and celery salad.

And pasta for days (yes, the restaurant’s own tortellini is a given).

You could satisfy your sweet tooth from the gelato bar above which hangs an Abe Opperman painting capturing Lorenzo as a little boy relishing an ice-cream cone.

But the night’s ultimate delight?

Having Caterina herself dish up bowls of gramigna al tartufo out of the hollowed-out centre of a giant parmesan wheel.

Che buono!