Harbour Fare: All wrapped up in fish

The air is salty on a crisp morning as snoek fillets dry on lines above Kalk Bay harbour's fish tables.

The white double-storey space of Harbour House and its sister restaurants looms smartly over the bustling fishing pier. Sitting apart, a modest blue building has a red sign announcing "Kalky's the original and best fish & chips".

Its cabin-like wood interior is lit with fluorescent tubes, flags are strung into banners and walls display crude menu boards. Outdoor tables are painted blue; red plastic cloths with ice cream advertising cover indoor ones.

Kalky's was created by Edwin Rosslind, 78, a practical, entrepreneurial man whose jobs have ranged from servicing theatres in Johannesburg to managing a tyre company in Botswana. He returned to Cape Town to start his own tyre business, but three years later was employed at a transport company.

Word spread about his knack for engines, and he was soon fixing most of Kalk Bay's fishing boats. By 1979, Rosslind had set up a boat repair business, operating from a container on Kalk Bay harbour. It led to shares in fishing boats, and selling bait as a sideline.

Kalky's came about in 1996, after a tip-off from the Kalk Bay harbour master that the old take-away was for sale.

Rosslind paid R110000 for the business, and expanded it into a sit-down restaurant.

"I bought it with a couple of chip fryers, 10 packets of cigarettes, two pieces of fish and half a pocket of potatoes," said Rosslind.

His wife, Elizabeth, was roped in, and, seven years later, their daughter, Allison, dropped her engineering studies to join them. Edwin has since handed over ownership to Allison, now 43. She runs Kalky's, employs 24 staff, and is mostly behind the counter taking orders.

Business is brisk. Trading daily and seating 180 people, Kalky's goes through 1.2 tons of fish on an average day and around 300 pockets of potatoes over a weekend. Most customers order the battered hake and chips or snoek and chips (both R48), though locals often opt for the Hottentot fish with chips (R60). The system is casual: you join the queue to order and pay, find the sign pointing to plastic cutlery and grab a table until a waitress shouts your number. Lemon wedges should be requested on ordering, at 50c.

A condiment box on each table contained vinegar, chilli sauce and watered-down tomato sauce in re-used juice bottles.

"I think we've achieved the idea of giving people value for money," says Edwin Rosslind about the concept.

"We could buy a roll of calico and provide tablecloths. But tourists and our regular customers say this is what they want to see at Kalky's."

• Kalky's, Kalk Bay Harbour. 021-788-1726