Pig's on the move: Shoulder to the meal

08 October 2014 - 02:00 By Yolisa Mkele
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MOVE OVER BACON: Pork shoulder is slow-roasted, then shredded and seasoned to make a pulled pork sandwich
MOVE OVER BACON: Pork shoulder is slow-roasted, then shredded and seasoned to make a pulled pork sandwich

The flesh of the noble swine has been a bone of contention for millennia.

For some, the very thought of eating it sends spasms of revolt down the spine, while others view it as ambrosia. For those excited by the idea of shoving a sliver of pig into their molar-encrusted maw, pulled pork is rising quickly up the ranks of ways to indulge in hoggy hedonism.

The meat is slow-roasted for a number of hours, until it is tender enough to be shredded easily into strips.

"I think the starting point for this whole thing was the TV show Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. People would see it and ask where they could get it," said Nick Catzavelos, owner of the Smokehouse and Grill in Braamfontein.

The dish has its roots in the American Deep South. Pork shoulder - the cut from which pulled pork is harvested - can be tough. People would slowly barbecue the joints, sometimes for upward of 17 hours, to render the flesh edible, and made tasty sandwiches with the end result.

"There seems to be this rebirth in the US of 'back-to-roots' cooking. You are seeing a lot more traditional American dishes like mac and cheese, hotdogs and pulled pork sandwiches," Catzavelos said.

"As it becomes popular, people jump onto the bandwagon and want to make it gourmet, and you end up with all sorts of varieties."

Despite its rustic origins, pulled pork is versatile.

''It's very popular, especially on a beautiful piece of ciabatta, but it is also very nice with some Asian flavours. It gives it that nice sweet and sour hint," said Local Grill executive chef Heinz Brunner.

"With the popularity of the [low-carb] Banting diet, or for those who don't like bread, pulled pork is one dish you can cook with a sweet 'potato' mash," Brunner said.

"It also works with a little peppadew salad, especially in summer."

Catzavelos likes his pulled pork the good, old-fashioned way.

"It looks better in a sandwich than it does in the middle of a plate," he said.

Regardless of how you prefer it, if you are a swine-swilling heathen, then a mouthful of slow-cooked strips of porky goodness could be the most delicious way to keep your personal trainer employed.

  • Smokehouse and Grill, corner Juta and De Beer streets, Braamfontein, 011-403-1395
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