The Garden Route was calling once more. The destination this time: Gondwana, an 11,000ha fynbos-blanketed big-five game reserve near Mossel Bay. We’d be spending a few days in the luxury of an exclusive-use villa, but most of all, we were looking forward to being back in the bush and far away from the city and any reminders of global pandemics.
Big-five reserve with a difference
When I say “bush”, you may conjure up classic images of lowveld mopane scapes and tawny shrubbery, but the bush I refer to in this instance is mostly made up of one of the Western Cape’s most celebrated exports, fynbos.
You won’t get a conventional safari here either; if you’re used to spotting game in the northern reaches of the country like I am, it takes some getting used to seeing sundry antelope, elephant, rhino and lion in a fynbos setting. Strange, but startlingly beautiful. Remarkably, it is the only fynbos reserve in the world to harbour a free-roaming big five.
Warmly received at the reserve at Kwena Lodge, and fed a succulent supper in the gorgeously appointed restaurant, we made our way to our lodgings for the weekend – one of several privately situated Bush Villas located a few kilometres from Kwena. Perfect for families or groups of friends looking to isolate, the Bush Villas have three to four en suite bedrooms, a large living area with fireplace, fully equipped kitchen and a broad deck where one can take in the undulating hills of Gondwana.
Kwena Lodge, on the other hand, consists of a cluster of thatched beehive huts with spacious interiors, bathrooms with deep baths, skylights for stargazing, clay-pot fireplaces and spectacular 180º views. It’s also closest to the restaurant and bar area, with an inviting pool below.
A word on the topography: Gondwana got its name from what was known as Gondwanaland – the most southerly of two continents that formed part of the supercontinent Pangaea that existed about 510 to 180 million years ago. The Swartberg and Outeniqua mountain ranges that form the northern border of the reserve are the last visible evidence here of Gondwanaland (which incorporated several modern landmasses, including Antarctica, South America, Africa, Madagascar and Australia) after the continent split to how we know it today.
After digesting this slice of information imparted by our knowledgeable ranger Brian Dhori on our first early morning game drive, the gently rolling landscape suddenly seemed even more impressive, and the dawn mist added an ancient, almost mystical air to the pastel-hued terrain. Five-hundred-and-ten million years ago? Hard to fathom.
Still contemplating how small and insignificant our time on Earth is in the grand scheme of things, I was yanked from my existential reflections when our safari truck was brought to an abrupt halt. We had happened upon our first sighting of the morning: lions.
Two females and a large male were basking in the first rays of dawn, the male’s big mane jet black but for a fringe of gold – the latter accentuated in the morning light. Surveying us with bored indifference, the small pride eventually stretched, languidly crossed the road not metres from our vehicle, and disappeared behind a veil of fynbos. Morning made.
We proceeded to trundle around a large section of the reserve and didn’t see much else that morning (this is a proper wildlife reserve where wildlife roam far and wide, unlike some other Western Cape “game reserves” where animals appear on cue). Dhori educated us on everything Gondwana, including its vast variety of bird, animal and plant life. After a delicious breakfast, we parked ourselves on the expansive deck of our bush villa and enjoyed the peaceful sounds of nature. Much of the weekend was spent this way as we unwound and forgot about the bustle of city life and the constant dread of Covid for a while.
Our next two game drives served up white rhino, hippo, buffalo, plenty of red hartebeest, kudu, eland and Cape mountain zebra and, although we didn’t get to see all of the big five, it gives us an excuse to return to this wondrous place. What we did see plenty of were birds. The thing about fynbos and its hundreds of floral varietals is that it attracts an abundance of avifauna.
We were fortunate enough to catch sight of several flitting Cape sugarbirds, an orange-breasted sunbird and even a Burchell’s coucal. The birds of prey we were treated to included an African goshawk, plenty of jackal buzzards and, my favourite, a secretary bird. But that doesn’t even cover a fraction of the birdlife that calls Gondwana home – yet another reason for us to return.
We may even consider the much-vaunted Pioneer Trail when we return. A while back, Gondwana launched a slackpacking trail, which allows guests to immerse themselves in the reserve’s unique biodiversity and ecosystems, and even the big five may be spotted on foot. The trail takes guests to three remote tented fly camp locations over two full days of hiking, while their luggage is portered from camp to camp. Guests can rest assured that they’d be led by two highly-trained and armed guides, who also impart a wealth of knowledge along the walk.
Whichever way you choose to experience Gondwana, you’re likely to have a wonderful time. We’re certainly hooked and, given its proximity to Cape Town, we’ll be back before long.
Know this
Gondwana is offering South Africans jaw-dropping rates for a luxury bush getaway that won’t break the bank. Don’t miss out on these incredible deals.
KWENA LODGE
Fourteen open-plan hut-like suites with luxurious interiors and picturesque views close to all amenities. Perfect for couples.
R2,750 per person including all meals and two game drives daily.
BUSH AND FYNBOS VILLAS
The Bush Villas are located about 10km from Kwena Lodge, while the Fynbos Villas are adjacent to Kwena. Double-volume thatch roof with open-plan lounge, dining and kitchen area, and two-, three-, and four en-suite bedroom configurations. Living rooms have fireplaces and wide decks with built-in braais. Kitchens are fully equipped, with microwaves and dishwashers. Bush Villa: R2,750 per person sharing per night. Sleeps six to eight people per exclusive-use villa. Includes all meals and two game drives daily.
*Children under 12 stay for 50% less and those under six stay free, including the Junior Ranger programme.
PIONEER TRAIL
Guided slackpack trail. Three Tented Fly Camps each with four-bed tents with en-suite bathrooms and covered outdoor seating areas. The camps also include main dining and lounge/bar tents and an outdoor campfire area.
Staff complement: Camp assistant and two trail guides (same team for three nights).
R16,000 per night per camp. Sleeps eight people. Inclusive of private staff, all meals and two game drives daily.
Email: Reservations@gondwanagr.co.za; tel: 021-555-0807; cell: 074 582 4861
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