Researchers are developing a 3D-printed skin imitation equipped with living cells to test nanoparticles from cosmetics without using animals.
The researchers from Graz University of Technology in Austria and Vellore Institute of Technology (VIT) in India are working on the development of skin imitations that mimic the three-layer tissue and biomechanics of human skin.
The EU has laid down restrictions on animal testing for cosmetics and their ingredients. This led to a search for alternatives to test the absorption and toxicity of nanoparticles from cosmetics such as sun creams.
Beauty Without Cruelty South Africa — an animal rights organisation — has hailed the move to find an alternative for animal testing for cosmetics as “excellent news”.
The organisation said animals including rabbits, mice, monkeys, dogs, cats, birds and fish endure unimaginable suffering in unnecessary experiments for daily use products.
“Animal testing is outdated, unreliable and unethical, with modern, cruelty-free alternatives readily available. Misleading labels make it difficult for consumers to identify truly cruelty-free products.”
According to the organisation, while many countries, including South Africa, do not keep official statistics of the numbers of animals used in research, in a recent world survey it is estimated about 115-million animals are used worldwide in laboratory experiments, though the number is probably higher. It is estimated 100,000 animals are used in South Africa very year.
When it comes to the research, scientists say imitations can be produced using 3D printing and consist of hydrogel formulations — in which skin cells survive and grow — printed together with living cells.
“The hydrogels for our skin imitation from the 3D printer have to fulfil a number of requirements,” said Karin Stana Kleinschek from the Institute of Chemistry and Technology of Biobased Systems at Graz University.
“They must be able to interact with living skin cells. These cells not only have to survive, but also have to be able to grow and multiply.”
Graz University is working intensively on cross-linking methods for stabilisation.
Following nature's example, the cross-linking takes place under very mild conditions and without the use of cytotoxic chemicals.
Our many years of expertise in the field of material research for tissue imitations and VIT's expertise in molecular and cell biology have complemented each other perfectly. We are now working together to further optimise the hydrogel formulations and validate their usefulness as a substitute for animal experiments.
— Karin Stana Kleinschek from the Institute of Chemistry and Technology of Biobased Systems at Graz University
After successful stabilisation, the Indian researchers test the resistance and toxicity of the 3D prints in cell culture.
“Only when skin cells in the hydrogel survive in cell culture for two to three weeks and develop skin tissue, can we speak of a skin imitation.”
This skin imitation can then be used for further cell tests on cosmetics. The first tests of 3D-printed hydrogels in cell culture were very successful.
“In the next step, the 3D-printed models [skin imitations] will be used to test nanoparticles,” said Kleinschek.
“Our many years of expertise in the field of material research for tissue imitations and VIT's expertise in molecular and cell biology have complemented each other perfectly. We are now working together to further optimise the hydrogel formulations and validate their usefulness as a substitute for animal experiments.”
Toni Brockhoven, head of Beauty Without Cruelty South Africa, said this bodes well “not only as a more reliable, effective, and repeatable option for use in the cosmetics industry with any topical use preparations, but also for the pharmaceutical industry.
“Skin prick, patch and intradermal tests are currently used for the evaluation of hypersensitivity drug reactions for which animals are currently used.
“There is certainly from some individuals, a refusal to change to modern, animal-free vivisection — methods of research and testing that avoid using live animals — even when the clear, undisputed disadvantages are presented, however, the availability of new technology should see a positive push for change.”
Brockhoven said the organisation’s attempt to change animal-based testing cosmetics laws in South Africa “was brushed aside by the ruling party recently, however, we are pushing for this again”.
“While there is no cosmetics testing currently taking place, we want a line drawn in the sand which will benefit the country as far as exports go, however, this was deemed ‘undesirable’. We welcome any new technologies which benefit animals, but also benefits humans where accurate and relevant data is obtained,” said Brockhoven.
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