The Big Read: Little Miss Sunshine State

Florida is staging a 12-month festival to mark 500 years since its first Spanish settlers. Simon and Susan Veness highlight some of its hottest attractions
WHY GO
Superficially, Florida has no secrets. Blissful beaches, amazing theme parks and fabulous shopping make this a "no-brainer", as the locals say, whether for families, couples, pensioners or solo travellers. But dig below the surface and what at first might seem a two-dimensional destination bursts into vivid 3D with an array of extra possibilities that lure people back year after year.
Orlando, the "theme-park capital of the world", draws most of the state's 87 million annual visitors. It's a place of elaborate fantasy, yet only the starting point on a journey that encompasses eco-adventures, wildlife expeditions, outdoor pursuits andluxury hotels and spas.
In addition, the state has America's oldest city (St Augustine), a rich Native American heritage (with the Seminole tribe), a legacy of early 20th-century expansion (Henry Flagler's railroads) and the home of space exploration (the Kennedy Space Centre). It also has the Ringling circus, "the Greatest Show on Earth".
It offers excellent value for money and pretty much guarantees a reliable, good-quality holiday.
WHEN TO GO
May to September can be fiendishly humid, with temperatures above 35°C. The ideal cooler-but-pleasant weather runs from March to early May and mid-October to late November. Southern Florida is still in the 20°Cs in winter but, farther north, it can drop below freezing at night.
Orlando and its theme parks are also extremely busy in March and early April and from June to mid-August, and packed at Christmas and New Year.
WHERE TO GO
Florida splits into five distinct tourist regions. In terms of beaches, the Gulf Coast is calmer and warmer (better for families) and the Atlantic coast is good for watersports. Many visitors combine an Orlando stay with a week on the Gulf Coast or the Keys, the string of islands that arcs 193km towards the Caribbean.
. NORTHEAST
Jacksonville, the principal northern city, has an eye-catching riverfront, lively nightlife, shopping and beaches. The golf resort of the Tournament Players Club is at Sawgrass and fans of the sport will enjoy the World Golf Hall of Fame at nearby St Augustine, where the Spanish established their first colony in 1565. The town is home to America's oldest fort, as well as graceful colonial landmarks, such as the Lightner Museum, Flagler College and the Memorial Presbyterian Church.
. CENTRAL
This is the home of Disney, Universal, SeaWorld and Legoland Florida. With good access to both coasts and the south, it is a great starting point, and handy for the Kennedy Space Centre, Daytona Beach and Tampa, which is home to Busch Gardens, the Lowry Park Zoo and the Florida Aquarium, as well as Ybor City, formerly the cigar-making capital of the world. Just to the south, in Kissimmee, holiday villas are numerous and affordable.
. GULF COAST
Here visitors have their pick of 337km of white-sand beaches, from Tarpon Springs to the southern tip of Marco Island, on the edge of the Everglades. West of Tampa are Clearwater and St Pete Beach, where families flock, and the towns become more exclusive as you head south. The southern beaches have thousands of sea shells, while Venice is where thousands of shark teeth wash up on the beaches.
. SOUTHEAST
West Palm Beach was the railroad magnate Henry Flagler's ultimate resort in the early 20th century, and hotels line a seafront that still draws the glitterati south in winter. Tiger Woods lives in Jupiter, just to the north. The string of resorts and cities farther south includes Deerfield Beach, Boca Raton and Fort Lauderdale, known as "the Venice of America" on account of its canals. It also has the state's largest shopping mall, Sawgrass Mills. At Big Cypress, the home of the Seminole tribe, the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum is part of their "living village", along with the Billie Swamp Safari, which offers trips into the Everglades.
. THE KEYS
South of Miami, these chain-link islands start at Key Largo, made famous by the eponymous Humphrey Bogart film, which will be celebrated with a festival this month. It's also home to the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Islamorada and Marathon are the two other main towns before you arrive in the US's southernmost point, Key West, where Ernest Hemingway once roamed the bars, and deep-sea fishing is a quasi-religion.
ATTRACTIONS
Even if rides aren't for you, the theme parks are also works of art and great sources of excitement. Florida's natural side also appeals to nature-lovers and wildlife fans. But let's start with the obvious.
. WALT DISNEY WORLD
This giant playground has four theme parks, two water parks, four golf courses and a "downtown" district of shops, restaurants and nightlife, as well as watersports, fishing and riding. Its 22 hotels, covering most budgets, are among Florida's best.
The Magic Kingdom is the heart of Walt's fantasy, in themed "lands". The revamped Fantasyland, with its new Storybook Circus and Enchanted Forest areas, is classic, family-friendly Disney; Tomorrowland is home to the Space Mountain rollercoaster; the tricks of the movie business are showcased at Disney's Hollywood Studios; and Kilimanjaro Safaris, at Disney's Animal Kingdom, is one of the most realistic wildlife experiences outside Africa.
One-day, one-park ticket, $94 (R850); seven-day all-inclusive ticket, $367 (R3320). See disneyworld.disney.go.com.
. UNIVERSAL ORLANDO
This consists of two theme parks - including Islands of Adventure, or "the Harry Potter park" - plus an entertainment district and three themed hotels.
Universal Studios Florida, the original park, is expanding to provide a 3D Transformers ride in 2013 and a Wizarding area for late 2014 that adds the "London" part of Potter world. Universal also owns the nearby Wet 'n Wild water park.
One-day, one-park ticket, $94 (R850); four-day, two-park ticket, $191 (R1725). See www.universalorlando.com.
. LEGOLAND FLORIDA
The newest part of the Lego empire is also its biggest. Geared to children aged two to 12, it offers Lego fun and games and an array of rides, including a water park.
One-day ticket, $76 (R690), two-day ticket, $91 (R820); water park, $12 (R110). See florida.legoland.com/en.
. SEAWORLD
This park offers a surprisingly environmental message among its shows, aquariums and even its four big-thrill rides, which include a "flying" coaster (where riders lie instead of sit). The marine mammal shows are superb. The biggest project yet is due to open in summer - Antarctica: Empire of the Penguin.
The sister park, Busch Gardens, has African theming mixed in with great rides, large-scale shows and animal savannahs.
One-day ticket, $94 (R850) (or $81/R732 for Busch Gardens); SeaWorld and Busch Gardens for two weeks, $148 (R1330). See seaworldparks.com.
. KENNEDY SPACE CENTRE
The home of "One Small Step For Man" will open a new Space Shuttle attraction this summer, combining a child-friendly museum and interactive science centre.
One-day ticket, $50 (R450). See www.kennedyspacecenter.com.
. FLORIDA ECO-SAFARIS
Established as a tribute to the gifted young eco-botanist Allen Broussard - who died at 29 - on his parents' 1900ha ranch, this offers wildlife safaris, riding, camping, ranch activities and a "zip line eco-park". A set fee allows all-day access to six zip-line adventures, including a forest canopy circuit and America's first "zip rollercoaster".
Admission free; activities $32 (R288) to $199 (R1800). See www.floridaecosafaris.com.
. JOHN PENNEKAMP CORAL REEF PARK
Visitors to these 180km² of beaches, coral reefs and marine wildlife can join diving and snorkelling tours and glass-bottom-boat excursions, or rent canoes.
Admission, $8 (R72) per car; activities, $12 (R108) - $55 (R500). See www.floridastateparks.org/pennekamp.
. RINGLING ESTATE & MUSEUM
This is the former home of the circus impresario John Ringling and "The Greatest Show on Earth". From 1907 to 1936, Ringling added Barnum and Bailey to his empire and travelled the country, inspiring the 1952 film starring Charlton Heston. The mansion and museum offer a peek inside the realm of one of America's richest men of the 1920s.
Admission, $25 (R226) (www.ringling.org).
. EVERGLADES
Spread over 1.2-million ha, this vast tropical wetland has become one of the world's largest conservation areas. The eastern gateway is Fort Lauderdale and the western one Everglades City, whose visitor centre has maps and displays for self-guided tours, including by boat or canoe. As well as bird life, look for alligators, the less-prevalent American crocodile, white-tailed deer, otters, turtles and raccoons.
Admission, $10 (R90) per car, valid for one week (www.nps.gov/ever).
WHERE TO STAY
Most hotels operate on a room-only basis, meaning it is never per person, and the rate is the total cost for two adults (plus local sales tax) or even a family of four (with two double beds). Bed-and-breakfast deals are rare, and no hotel will offer half or full board unless part of a short-term promotion. Rooms are usually air-conditioned, with one king or two queen-sized beds.
. SELF-CATERING
Florida has plenty of holiday homes in all areas, except expensive spots such as Palm Beach and St Augustine. A major part of the Orlando/Kissimmee accommodation scene, they represent great value for larger families and groups. Many are in gated communities with a communal clubhouse, bar and pool, while others are in condos - swish, resort-style apartment blocks. All offer kitchens, washer-dryers and, in some cases, games rooms and mini-cinemas. Prices for a five-bedroom villa vary from $1000 (R9000) per week in low season to $1600 (R14500) in peak season.
Bookings can be made with a management company, which will often handle several hundred properties. If you book direct with owners (try www.vrbo.com), be sure they have a local agent to deal with problems, as most owners do not live in the area.
If you have the budget for a luxury hotel, The Breakers in Palm Beach (rooms from $550/R5000; thebreakers.com); W Fort Lauderdale (rooms from $339/R3000 per night; wfortlauderdalehotel.com) and the Waldorf-Astoria within Walt Disney World (from $341 (R3085); see waldorfastoriaorlando.com) are all excellent.
Good-value choices include:
Manasota Beach Club - These historic cottages in Englewood appeal to birders, beach-lovers and people hoping to "get away from it all". There are 21 suites of from one to three bedrooms in 13 cottages. Some can be adjoined, some have pools. There is a central clubhouse - which serves good meals - and a private beach.
Rooms from $1600 (R14400) per week. See manasotabeachclub.com.
Lemon Tree Inn - This gem in Naples is two blocks from shops and restaurants and a 20-minute stroll from the beach. The 34 rooms each have a fridge and microwave, with verandahs or porches facing a courtyard and pool.
Rooms from $143/day (R1 300). See www.lemontreeinn.com .
Island Bay Resort - Just south of Key Largo, on a private beach, this set of 10 cottages offers quintessential island living. The accommodation includes good kitchenettes and private patios with barbecues.
Rooms from $169 per day (R1500). Seewww.islandbayresort.com
Holiday Inn, Lake Buena Vista Downtown - So close to downtown Disney you could hurl a rock and hit Bibbidi Bobbidi Boutique. The rooms are functional and comfortable. Some have a view of the fireworks at Magic Kingdom; some a microwave or mini-fridge. Superb value for money.
Rooms from $107 per day (R970). See www.holidayinn.com.
©The Telegraph
