Weekend Escape: The sheep whisperer

Riding solo through the Karoo, Nick Yell finds friendly faces at a cottage with special skills

When my friend's flu showed no sign of clearing, I called my other motorbiking mates to see if they could join me. But all were snagged by work commitments, so there was only one thing for it: don the rain suit, fill the "Medical Reserve" hip flask and set off into the snow-capped regions of the Karoo alone.

With the temperature at 8°C before I set off in the light drizzle, I swaddled my body in multiple layers of warm clothing and hermetically sealed myself into my two-piece rain-suit. Even though I moved with the agility of the Michelin Man in leg-irons, the constricted feeling off the bike was turned into a pleasing, cocoon-like warmth when on it.

Passing the Raubenheimer Dam on the Oude Muragie Road to De Rust, its mirror-still waters reflecting the winter alpine scene behind it, I realised again that this is one of my favourite back-road routes. Although it's manageable in a car, it provides a number of adventure-biking challenges, such as sharp twists and turns over a variety of surfaces; and the scenery is among the best South Africa has to offer. Zen dirt-tracking at its best.

Up ahead, a flock of sheep blocked the road and I switched off the bike, content to sit in the silence and let the journey follow the rhythm of the Klein Karoo. But after eight hours on the road, I was also looking forward to getting to my overnight stay at Spitzkoppen Cottage on the Oudemuragie Guest Farm. Luckily, it was just down the road and I could almost feel the warmth of the fire and taste the scotch on the rocks while my tinned Breyani bubbled merrily on the stove.

When I got to the farm, I met owners Maggie and Jan Fourie, escapees from the hectic lifestyle of owning a filling-station in Gauteng 14 years ago. After a chat and an introduction to the pet sheep with "lewensregte" (Maggie has 13 that are all rescue cases and she has an intimate relationship with each one, leading some folk to dub her the "sheep whisperer"), Jan led me to my cottage. All was better than expected and soon my earlier imaginings of hot showers and home comforts played out in real time.

Sitting next to the crackling hearth and reading an article about the farm by Winnie Graham, I learnt that Maggie didn't only have a way with sheep, but also a clutch of chickens and a brace of other rescued livestock.

A brown hen "rescued from the jaws of a genet one night" became so fond of her saviour, that she apparently only laid her eggs in Maggie's farmhouse after that. Then there was the effeminate cockerel who "adopted a hen's brood of four chicks when a hawk robbed them of their mother". And the list went on.

The next day dawned drizzly and cold, and the snow-covered peaks of the Swartberg were shrouded in mist; but I decided on a short walk up the farm road anyway. At this time of year, the spear-like bunches of red flowers crowning the aloe ferox are in full bloom and they punctuated my stroll with their arresting beauty.

I came across a dilapidated old stone kraal and realised it was part of the Oudemuragie legend I had read about in the cottage's information book the night before. Apparently, in the late 1800s, the farm was a cattle post to which the farmer used to bring monthly provisions for the livestock-minder.

 Yet, when he arrived there one month, he discovered his employee had upped and left with all of the farm's livestock. Having made his way through Meiringspoort, the farm worker headed deep into the Great Karoo and was never seen again.

The farmer packed up his few remaining possessions and trekked away from the farm, leaving the buildings to fall into ruin, which is how the farm, and the surrounding region, got its name. "Muragie" is an old form (Dutch) of "Murasie" - "ruins of a house or walls" - so "Oudemuragie" means "old ruins".

I had troubles of my own when I got back to the cottage - I found the front tyre of my motorbike almost completely flat. This not-so-slow-puncture spelt concern for a solo trip with 900km of remote dirt-track riding ahead but, after a healthy dose of "Puncture-fix" in a can and a quick ride up the farm track to seal the leak properly, the tyre appeared to be holding up just fine and I seemed set for the journey. All I needed was an extra dose of faith.

If you go

Where it is: Oudemuragie Guest Farm is 9km off the N12 between Oudtshoorn and De Rust.

What it has: Five cottages, offering accommodation for between two and 10 people. All the cottages are tastefully decorated with period furniture and equipped with the necessary utensils and equipment for self-catering. They also offer privacy, tranquillity and beautiful views.

Why go there: Apart from being able to follow the activities of a working farm, you'll be able to mingle with the pet livestock; swim in the pool at the Manor House or the dam; embark on three hiking trails of varying duration and difficulty; mountain-bike; bird-watch; stargaze; and immerse yourself in the unique natural surroundings and just relax in the silence.

The food: While this is a self-catering farm stay, certain dishes can be pre-ordered from Maggie two days in advance. There are also several good restaurants in nearby De Rust.

Rates: From R150 to R250 per person per night.

Contact: Jan or Maggie Fourie on 0442412146 or 0721588309; e-mail oudemuragie@telkomsa.net or visit oudemuragie.co.za.