Drift away to your own private island in Mozambique

Palesa Vuyolwethu Tshandu leaves her cares behind and heads to the Azura Quilalea resort for some luxury 'me' time

29 October 2017 - 00:00 By PALESA VUYOLWETHU TSHANDU

Legend has it that old villagers from the island of Sencar, a community of fishermen in Mozambique's Quirimbas Archipelago, roam among the mangroves at night in search of island treasures.
But for guests of the Azura resort on the nearby island of Quilalea, kayaking in the Senca mangroves is just one of the activities the resort offers as a retreat from the fusses of everyday life. Quilalea - which means "place of rest" in the local dialect, a mixture of Portuguese and Swahili, is a tropical treasure tucked away in far northern Mozambique, surrounded by marine life.A few Portuguese phrases will help you navigate your way through border control: saying "hello" ("ola") and "thank-you" - "obrigado" if you're a man and "obrigada" if you're a woman - will leave you feeling that you are home.The aerial view from the helicopter ride to the resort allows you to see humpback whales, who - as though in unison with the dolphins - show themselves off in an effort to lure you into the sea.
The clear, blue Indian Ocean - dotted with islands with little villages, plantations and marine life - suggests that "home" is a fluid term here, shared by all who occupy the space.
YOUR OWN PRIVATE ESCAPE
Once you've alighted from the helicopter on the island, sea shells and white stones lead you along a path on which you are met by one of the resort staff carrying bottled water and a damp cloth soaked in fragrant lemongrass to cool you down before you retreat to your home-away-from-home.
On the trek into the resort, you may spot some ancient treasures, such as old baobab trees that look over you as though bowing in approval of your visit.
This resort is the second luxury Indian Ocean retreat from Britons Christopher and Stella Bettany. The island is uninhabited - apart from the nine seaside villas, which can accommodate up to 18 guests.The natural coral stone and makuti thatch blend perfectly into the natural surroundings, which is why you will occasionally share a space with uninvited guests such as geckos and praying mantises.
The villa's bedroom, directly facing the sea, becomes an echo chamber for the waves crashing against the shoreline, the beautiful melodies of the Quirimbas.
The villas can be configured with kingsize or twin beds, which are covered by oversized mosquito nets.
The bathrooms have showers with peek-a-boo shutter doors, which you can open and close at your discretion, and a separate toilet and bidet.
Communal spaces are inviting to those who wish to connect with the outside world. The wifi hotspot is by the main bar and pool area, where large cushions and occasional offerings of coconut water in coconut shells and baobab drinking straws make it a delightful space to chill.This also doubles as a yoga spot, as its high platform overlooks the ocean. Here, over sundowners, the views and gentle conversations with the barman will have you mulling the possibility of extending your stay.
DINING UNDER ANCIENT TREES
Activities on the island are limitless, but since Azura has its own scuba instructors - Hanli Prinsloo and Peter Marshall - most of my time was spent finding the friends who had invited us down as we flew over the sea.
We had a dive lesson at low tide, with all the diving equipment on hand from the resort's scuba store. If you already know how to dive, you can rent the gear.
But it's important to go out to sea with a half-empty stomach - unforgiving tides can leave one feeling woozy and contemplating "feeding the fish".
At dinners under the baobabs, all palates are catered for with spectacular displays of Portuguese culture - courses such as crab, lobster and line fish, caught by the local fishermen.
For wine connoisseurs, there is a fine cellar available with wines from the owner's five estates, as well as from Azura's own château, flown in from France's Loire Valley.
This island resort is the perfect getaway for anyone looking to gather themselves, whether as a couple or on their own, as it welcomes you to yourself.PLAN YOUR TRIP
ACTIVITIES
The activities on the island - which are add-ons to your total package - include the spa, beach picnics or the private dining experiences, baobab nature walk, scuba diving and a scuba-diving course, guided snorkelling trips, deep-sea fishing, sea kayaking, dhow sailing, dhow sunset cruises, island hopping and remote beach picnics.
Cultural visits include historic Ibo island, a tour of a working coconut plantation on Quirimba Island and the local village tour.
IS THERE MALARIA?
While Mozambique is a malarial hot spot, Quilalea island is a low-risk area as it does not have a local population or any natural standing water.
VISAS
South Africans do not need a visa to visit Mozambique.
GETTING THERE
Pemba is served by flights from Johannesburg, Dar es Salaam and Nairobi. Airlink (flyairlink.com) offers the quickest route with direct flights from OR Tambo International Airport. Fares for November travel from around R4,885.
RATES
From $1,500 to about $2,000, depending on the villa.
BOOKINGS
Call 011-467-0907, e-mail reservations@azuraretreats.com or visit the website. 
• Tshandu was a guest of Azura Quilalea...

There’s never been a more important time to support independent media.

From World War 1 to present-day cosmopolitan South Africa and beyond, the Sunday Times has been a pillar in covering the stories that matter to you.

For just R80 you can become a premium member (digital access) and support a publication that has played an important political and social role in South Africa for over a century of Sundays. You can cancel anytime.

Already subscribed? Sign in below.



Questions or problems? Email helpdesk@timeslive.co.za or call 0860 52 52 00.