The state of the nation address red carpet has earned a reputation for frivolity, wastefulness and self-indulgence. This was especially the case this year as the rampant load-shedding and dilapidated infrastructure, among other contentious things, was not enough to excuse a celebratory “opening of parliament”.
As a result, politicians took to this year's Sona carpet by making attempts at toning down the usual garish custom designs and opulent fabrics that litter the streets of Cape Town. While the wearers usually get the most flak, the butt of the Sona joke has often been the designers.
One of the few promises of the annual Sona is that opportunities are given to the mandatory praise poets and performers who form part of the festivities. While it may be a great way to curry favour, from attendees and viewers at home, with a cornucopia of charming talents, it also creates life-changing opportunities that might put some of these talents in the right light.
State of the nation undressed: how the red carpet changes designers' lives
We speak to local couturiers on creating outfits for the controversial affair
Image: Gallo Images/Brenton Geach
The state of the nation address red carpet has earned a reputation for frivolity, wastefulness and self-indulgence. This was especially the case this year as the rampant load-shedding and dilapidated infrastructure, among other contentious things, was not enough to excuse a celebratory “opening of parliament”.
As a result, politicians took to this year's Sona carpet by making attempts at toning down the usual garish custom designs and opulent fabrics that litter the streets of Cape Town. While the wearers usually get the most flak, the butt of the Sona joke has often been the designers.
One of the few promises of the annual Sona is that opportunities are given to the mandatory praise poets and performers who form part of the festivities. While it may be a great way to curry favour, from attendees and viewers at home, with a cornucopia of charming talents, it also creates life-changing opportunities that might put some of these talents in the right light.
Image: Ziyaad Douglas
Image: GCIS
Take Beverley Cloete, whose garments have often landed Mandla and Rabia Mandela on the best-dressed list. Her Xhosa gowns and regalia have made the pair the darlings of the red carpet while still capturing the spirit of her designs. While Pemmy Majodina is known for not making the best-dressed list, the designer behind her garment was able to reinvigorate his failing business thanks to a growing clientele of politicians and A-listers.
“As politicians, they use fashion as a medium to communicate whatever they want to communicate. Even if it's just wearing a simple T-shirt. It is able to transcend time through every decade,” says designer Amkelo Jiyane, adding that this reflects the omnipresence of fashion in multiple spheres.
This was evident in how Jiyane was able to bring this idea to life through his work for National Youth Development Agency's executive chair, Asanda Luwaca. The white midi-gown honoured the former speaker of the National Assembly, Frene Ginwala who died recently.
Taxpayer couture: Sona red carpet a reflection of the times
“Asanda pulls influence and inspiration from her being the first female executive for the NYDA,” says Jiyane. “In terms of silhouette we wanted a bit of freedom for her to move around, and added yellow as a ray of sunlight — shining a new beacon of a new dawn rising.”
Not all of these businesses enjoy the privilege of breeding success for the support of the Sona attendees. A number of the dignitaries do not run social media accounts which makes wearing a particular designer's garment fruitless when there is no way of finding the work of someone you resonate with.
The president has often taken to House of Monatic, but that level of influence and power was not enough to save some businesses when they faced closure.
In a twist, dressing the more expressive guests such as Basetsana Kumalo and Mmamoloko Kubayi has continued to improve the success of Sona veterans Hanwani Nengovhela and Tswelopele Nare.
Under her brand Rubicon, Nengovhela dressed Khumalo and Proudly South African's Happy Ngidi, playing out well for her. Ngidi was dressed from her recent collection while Kumalo had a custom outfit made to shed some positivity and light in the shape of tulips.
Nare likes to be collaborative with the people he designs for and created his look for minister of human settlements, Kubayi with this in mind.
Image: Twitter/@DpmeOfficial
Image: Twitter/ANC
Nare and Nengovhela note the importance of the Sona red carpet as it creates an impact on the value chain behind the work they create. Nengovehla enjoyed a huge increase in web traffic due to people buying her clothes. This has not stopped or saved her from the backlash received from the divisive glamour seen on the Sona red carpet.
“I can relate to what they are saying yet as designers we need to create. It's not just about her being a celebrity but she is supporting a lot of people,” says Nengovhela. “That dress is going to translate into sales and those sales play a part in the economy. It's sad what the country is going through but designers also need to make an income.”
Nare adds that their work has the ability to make changes that go beyond the designs created for that evening.
“Even the person who cleans the shop where we work, it puts food on their table just from the dresses we make. It creates employment.”
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