Fashion explained: how Pharrell became head of Louis Vuitton menswear

Pharrell Williams has had one of the most stellar journeys in the music industry. There are few producers and musicians who are able to craft a sound that not only defines a particular era but spawns the careers of many artists who continue to enjoy global success.

With his untamed rise in the hip-hop and pop world, Pharrell's sense of expression has leaked into his self-expression as seen through the many phases of his career. This led to him winning fashion icon status for his bold yet subtle style.

How did he do it and how did it lead to his controversial climb to becoming the first celebrity to take the helm of creative director at a fashion house such as Louis Vuitton? Let's dive into it.

FASHIONABLE BEGINNINGS

As part of a new movement in music known for its take on the New Jack Swing genre, Pharrell and his business partner Chad Hugo made a name by producing music for the people such as Mase and Justin Timberlake, among others.

While the duo were responsible for the music created under their The Neptunes moniker, Hugo took the back seat while Pharrell became its face.

Pharrell also went on to form N.E.R.D. with Hugo and musician Shay Haley that would continue to let his creative pursuits shine. While their distinct sound merged a number of influences, their personal style, incorporating streetwear and an indie rock aesthetic, would catch the eye of many. Eventually, Pharrell would follow in the footsteps of numerous other rap acts with his own clothing line. This was done in partnership with Reebok and the two lines were named Ice Cream (comprising men's and women's footwear) as well as Billionaire Boy's Club (menswear).

Items from these lines featured in a number of music videos by Pharrell, allowing them to reach a large audience, especially with releases that featured heavyweights such as Snoop Dogg and Jay Z. Designs were by Pharell and Nigo of A Bathing Ape fame, a Japanese fashion brand. Nigo worked closely on a number of projects with Virgil Abloh, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton's menswear collection from 2018 until his death from cancer in 2021.

KING OF COLLABORATIONS

By the mid-2000s, Pharrell had become a household name, working with bigger celebrities such as Britney Spears and Beyoncé. This would also usher in his first collaborative effort with Louis Vuitton in 2005 as he launched the iconic Millionaire sunglasses with the house, co-designed with Nigo. Thanks to the longevity of the sunglasses, Pharrell was able to design jewellery for Louis Vuitton's 2008 The Blason collection.

At this point, N.E.R.D had released its third studio album which was said to be the best yet by critics. This success saw Pharrell go on to curate an exhibition titled Perspective. It featured a colourful set of chairs made in collaboration with French furniture designers, Domeau & Pérès. He would later work with them again on a set of 12 bicycles that were exhibited in 2013. This was preceded by his 2007 exhibition at the Galerie Perrotin and created a long-standing relationship with the owner.

THE FASHION TAKEOVER

As streetwear came to dominate in the early 2010s, Pharrell became one of the biggest names to work with. This would include yet another luxury fashion house — Moncler.

Pharrell would not only design the sunglasses for their autumn/winter collection in 2013 but become the face of the release. This would help showcase his futuristic style that was carried through his musical pursuits with the illusive electronic music duo Daft Punk that sported an apt look at the time.

Pharrell's multimedia ventures including i am OTHER, which held productions by Issa Rae, and a show by fashion publication Hypebeast, which would also be an avenue for his T-shirt and cap line with the Japanese retailer Uniqlo.

In the build-up to his acclaimed 2014 studio album, GIRL, Pharrell worked with Galerie Perrotin for an exhibition of the same name featuring 40 artworks, of which 10 were commissioned from other visual artists. That same year, he would kick off the first of many collaborations with adidas to customise 10 pairs of shoes for a range of Stan Smith sneakers. He would also go on to create his own perfume with Comme des Garçons.

At the 2014 Grammy awards, his Vivienne Westwood Buffalo Hat would become an indelible image of his style. The hat proved his influence, as he bought it five years prior and only wore it on a whim.

By the tail end of 2014, Pharrell would work with Nigo again for a capsule collection of Billionaire Boy's Club, available exclusively at the Parisian boutique Colette, which closed three years later. He closed the year starring alongside Cara Delevingne  in Chanel's “Reincarnation” video that paid homage to its founder Coco Chanel.

BECOMING AN ICON

Pharrell would dedicate more time to sustainability in 2015 when working on a capsule collection with Parley for the Oceans that would continue its mission of raising awareness about sea pollution. Featuring a range of faded denims, the G-Star Raw collaboration included accessories made from recycled materials.

In 2016, he worked with the founders of Bionic Yarn as their creative director. The business recycled plastic waste found in oceans as threading materials. He also paved the way as one of the first men to model Chanel's handbags, not before making his runway debut for Chanel's pre-fall collection. A year later he would design a sneaker for the brand's collaboration with adidas, fusing the two fashion giants that had embraced him. He would be given a range to design with adidas four years later titled Premium Basics. The oversized pieces embraced gender-neutral trends with a minimal approach. 

While Pharrell might have a colourful fashion history he is not short on controversies either. The most recent began with his 2015 Elle magazine cover where he received backlash for agreeing to wear a Native American headdress. He also landed in hot water for appropriation in 2018 for a collection of sneakers with adidas inspired by the Nepalese festival of colours. Another pair of adidas sneakers that got him into trouble featured a Xhosa word that would allow both parties to profit albeit there being no sales in South Africa for them.

He was also called out for promoting plagiarism when he wore a pair of Tiffany sunglasses that were said to copy a pair of antique Mughal sunglasses.

While it may be historic that he has been named the new creative director for Louis Vuitton menswear, many netizens of the fashion community have questioned the decision over qualified designers. This includes Martine Rose and Grace Wales Bonner who were said to be the top contenders. The controversy sees two up-and-coming designers replaced by a celebrity.

Do you think Pharrell's extensive fashion history is enough to warrant his new appointment or do you have someone in mind for the role of Louis Vuitton's menswear creative director? Have a say in our comments or vote on our Instagram poll.