Death of the red carpet

The glitz and glam of Emmy, Grammy, and Oscars are quickly being replaced by streetwear and front row stars of fashion week.

13 March 2023 - 18:57
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Oscar nominated singer, Rihanna walks the champagne carpet at the Oscars.
Oscar nominated singer, Rihanna walks the champagne carpet at the Oscars.
Image: Photo by Emma McIntyre/Getty Images

My earliest memory of red carpet hype stems back to school days in the 2000s when young girls would often scrutinise the back pages of tabloids for all the red carpet looks. These would serve as an inspiration for future weddings or be cut out for matric dance mood boards.

And this could be seen in the dresses opted for in each era, the red carpet played a crucial role in how these would be mimicked. Naturally, this creates importance for the glitzy affairs where they are worn because it’s not just little school girls who keep their eyes on these dresses but high-flying jet setters who can afford to make the call to the designers who own them.

For centuries, red carpets have become a predominant staple of movie releases, so much so that the game was forever changed when comedian Joan Rivers asked “who are you wearing?” to Golden Globe attendees in 1994.

While Hollywood stars didn’t want to associate themselves with the glitz and glam of fashion, this monumental moment would require a shift in how Hollywood stars would prepare themselves for appearances. Soon enough, the lucrative relationship between celebrities and fashion designers merged to make way for red carpet culture. A culture that seems to have run its course.

Each event carries its own significance, the MTV Video Music Awards are much more casual. Stars on tour for the world premiere of their movie play the role of keeping eyes on the production. While risqué pieces are expected at these affairs, an Oscar nominee might have to balance the scale between being bold and demure. Even filmmaker Sofia Coppola lamented on Instagram about missing the days “when the Oscars was more personal and less perfect”.

If you’re on that track, every award show leading up to the Oscars is sort of an audition. You’re giving a job interview to see if you should get an Oscar, so everyone is pretty much on their best behaviour,” stylist, Tom Lorenzo, shared with Voxon as to whether stars dress down when they are trying to impress Oscar judges.

“So when [nominees] hit that red carpet on Oscar night, it’s full-on impeccable style. It’s somewhere between, say, princess fantasy meets socialite demureness. They’re not going to do edgy or trendy stuff. This will be the biggest audience of the year looking at them, so they don’t want to put anybody off.”

Lorenzo's sentiments can be seen in the pressure surrounding stars who attend these awards. Other than the fact that wearing an over-the-top outfit might take attention away from the movie, it runs the risk of putting the stars under a lot of duress. Not everyone can take the risk of an overly conceptual look. Björk's swan dress took attention away from her nomination and focused on the backlash she received.

Nicole Kidman in black at the 2018 Golden Globes.
Nicole Kidman in black at the 2018 Golden Globes.
Image: Getty Images
Bjork in her now beloved swan dress.
Bjork in her now beloved swan dress.
Image: Kevin Mazur/WireImage

Additionally, red carpet looks have toned down the wow factor from the past due to the political statements that talents are trying to convey. It’s very hard to pull off J Lo’s Versace moment when you're dressed in all black at the 2018 Golden Globes in honour of the Time’s Up campaign.

Many stars were now being questioned for their views on global sociopolitical issues and trying to portray themselves in a manner that can be taken seriously.

And while many stars might want to break the rules or inspire viewers at home with jaw-dropping red-carpet moments, there’s very little space to do that when you are bound by a contract from the fashion house you fall under. Many actors like Margot Robbie or Florence Pugh have received backlash for red-carpet appearances that are limited by their places under brands like Chanel. While Zendaya, under the strategic eye of Law Roach, rose to stardom by copying looks and wearing attention-hungry brands like Dolce & Gabanna, the Kardashians have faced backlash for holding on to problematic brands like the latter fashion stable or the likes of Alexander Wang and Balenciaga.

Model Babalwa Mneno struts the red carpet at Sona 2020.
Model Babalwa Mneno struts the red carpet at Sona 2020.
Image: Gallo Images/Brenton Geach

Taking on movements like Time’s Up or trying to be bold can backfire as an ambassador or attendee at the Met Gala, where your host brand simply wants to market their current trends to their audience.

It’s no wonder stars like Reese Witherspoon pushed for campaigns like #askhermore where stars on carpets are not limited to questions like “who are you wearing?” as seen with inane interviews that are sexist.

We have seen the same problem on South African red carpets at the state of the nation address where female parliamentarians would be asked about what they are wearing rather than their work. An opportunity that has been used as their excuse for rocking outlandish ensembles on the highly ridiculed carpet.

And while their ensembles aren’t always up for throughout the year, our celebrities have been ridiculed for outlandish silhouettes, mixed fabrics and overly detailed gowns. It’s a quintessential South African celebrity look that borrows from the 80s power dressing fused with overt nods to African craftsmanship, including beading that can include jewels or animal prints that can be traded for feathers or fur.

And it works for some of our audiences who can often look up to this style as a status symbol. Wild colours and mixed elements that allow designers to shine and have a distinct “mama I made it” appeal. A sort of nouveau riche couture if you will.

While our hunger for outlandish styles could be seen in the many stars abroad like Cardi B or Rihanna, it left many with a sour taste during Covid-19. More and more stylists were put under pressure to dress their clients down and make them more relatable during the pandemic.

Beyonce's decline in fashion pull has been linked to her hermit approach to fame.
Beyonce's decline in fashion pull has been linked to her hermit approach to fame.
Image: MARIO ANZUONI

But as veterans of the game toned down their personal style, it made way for newcomers who were more than ready to break the rules in a more democratised fame game. For one, Regina Hall didn't have to play by the rules and went for many daring looks in the lead up to her 2018 Best Actress gong. While audiences traded workwear for tracksuits and uggs, Olivia Rodrigo captured the fun side of fashion with her trendy pumps and opera gloves.

As Doja Cat, Lil Nas X, Bad Bunny and Emma Chamberlain cemented their hold on fashion’s pop culture, veterans like Kanye West continued their run and it’s all thanks to the new influential fashion space: fashion week.

While local fashion week events have become a home for top TikTokers, international ramps reflooded by the most influential figures. Wisdom Kaye has come to be the benchmark of TikTok style trends, shifting the focus from Shein hauls to restyled designer pieces. Shifting from YouTube to fashion events, Chamberlain cemented her meteoric rise by hosting the Met Gala for YouTube and Vogue.

Recently, Doja Cat’s red ensemble at the haute couture week, not only reignited the red trend of late 2022 but also paved way for a lot of positive fashion discourse around her subsequent looks. Statement Ts rarely turn heads if they aren’t done off red carpets, much like Hailey Bieber’s now famous nepo baby cropped top.

Wisdom Kaye (right) speaks onstage during the Business of Fashion Professional Summit.
Wisdom Kaye (right) speaks onstage during the Business of Fashion Professional Summit.
Image: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images for The Business of Fashion

West’s famed Yeezy x Adidas collaboration has been the talk of the town due to the company making losses thanks to unsold Yeezy shoes. Working with the star, who not only keeps up appearances but attends fashion shows, has proven more lucrative than his superior Beyoncé who has been revealed to be a burdensome collaboration for the brand, all the while continuing her presence to red carpet events exclusively. Without engaging in fashion events and seeing what is happening in streetwear, Beyoncé’s total control of the collaboration makes this a gamble.

The next major red carpet will be the Met Gala honouring Karl Lagerfeld, a theme that most likely has no trickle-down effect as workwear trends have changed and people no longer care about suit and tie but rather comfortable clothing that blurs the lines between casual and formal. And where will we be seeing those looks? It is without a doubt something we will see on the streets and front rows of April and June’s fashion week.


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