Rise of the glam guys — how men rock their granny's style in new trend

From pearls to gloves, this recent fad sees males get modish

19 April 2023 - 14:09
By Thango Ntwasa
A model for Palse at Africa Fashion International's Cape Town Fashion Week.
Image: Supplied A model for Palse at Africa Fashion International's Cape Town Fashion Week.

It isn't often that menswear has revolutionary moments. Great strides were made just three years ago in women's sportswear and the ever-changing skirt hems, from Mary Quant to Miu Miu, still have an affect on how people dress today. For menswear, there have been few leaps where wearing pink still ruffles feathers.

However, the boundaries are broken every now and again by countercultures and style stars at fashion shows around the world. The shifting conversations on gender identities have also forced society to view fashion expression differently, resulting in daring looks from male fashion lovers.

US baseball star Joc Pederson holds his infamous pearl necklace at an auction where it sold for $22,000 (about R400,000).
Image: Photo by Richard Rodriguez/Getty Images US baseball star Joc Pederson holds his infamous pearl necklace at an auction where it sold for $22,000 (about R400,000).
ASAP Rocky sports his beloved 'babushka boy' style.
Image: Photo by Gregg DeGuire/WireImage ASAP Rocky sports his beloved 'babushka boy' style.

With the mixture of items coming from vintage must-haves, these glam guys borrow from female closets while incorporating masculine pieces. The look has been abundant with rappers inspired by streetwear. In his song, Babushka Boi, Asap Rocky wore a headscarf, much like some Russian women do, and he also sported pearls which have been a favourite of US baseball player Joc Pederson, who had fans up in arms when he opted for pearls on the pitch — much like musician Gunna, who got flak for wearing a Chanel women's jacket to an NBA game. 

Stars and runways unveiling recent collections at Cape Town AFI Fashion Week held the same sentiments.

A model on the runway for Otiz Seflo.
Image: AFI A model on the runway for Otiz Seflo.

Stereotypically, feminine gloves could be seen in men's and womenswear shows, including Palse, with one particular suit being paired with a choker. For Otiz Seflo, ties were replaced by bows, tailored shirts were made looser with billowing sleeves, complemented by a feminine silhouette and the inclusion of genderless kimonos for summer layering.

While this may have been popularised by streetwear, it is also finding a home in formal fashion that incorporates corsets and body-hugging tops such as slim-fit turtle necks as well as mock neck tees. Popular at Taibo Bacar, they also featured glittering suits and purses for men.

Lucien Laviscount at the Vanity Fair Oscars After Party.
Image: Photo by Jon Kopaloff/Getty Images for Vanity Fair Lucien Laviscount at the Vanity Fair Oscars After Party.
Lucien Laviscount breaking boundaries as an up and coming fashion star.
Image: Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images Lucien Laviscount breaking boundaries as an up and coming fashion star.

As with most fads, public figures play a pivotal role. Celebrities have proven to be powerful forces in influencing what we wear and many rule-breakers have inspired millions of followers.

Miami Vice actor Don Johnson was pivotal to the show changing the physical landscape of the eponymous location and pushing pastel trends onto lovers of his character's style. And who can forget the influence of Kurt Cobain in relation to grunge, leaving '90s fashion lovers in shock?

Today's stars are constantly looking to keep that persuasive relationship on red carpets and other public appearances to cement their fashion influence. While he has been claiming top Hollywood roles for the past decade, Lucien Laviscount struck gold by scoring access to power parties in gender-bending outfits. Former One Direction lead, Harry Styles, left his band and cemented his solo career by transitioning into his contentious outfits that have inspired and offended alike. This was especially the case when he made history as the first male Vogue cover star. 

How long will this trend last? Only time will tell as the lovers of the movement continue to embrace the ever-shifting line between genders.


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