IN PICTURES | Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton debut collection

Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Rihanna and Kim Kardashian come out for the show

21 June 2023 - 14:11 By Mimosa Spencer
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Designer Pharrell Williams appears at the end of his menswear ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2024 collection show for fashion house Louis Vuitton on the Pont Neuf bridge, during Men's Fashion Week in Paris, France on June 20 2023.
Designer Pharrell Williams appears at the end of his menswear ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2024 collection show for fashion house Louis Vuitton on the Pont Neuf bridge, during Men's Fashion Week in Paris, France on June 20 2023.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

For his debut collection at Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams drew his global audience to the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, kicking off his tenure as creative director of menswear with a celebrity-packed outdoor show.

In a show that further anchored the LVMH-owned label in popular culture, models strode across the gold-painted runway to live music. They paraded pearl-embellished tracksuits, furry outerwear and sparkling jackets with the label's signature checkmark pattern in all colours and sizes, including shades of camouflage.

Crowds gathered along the Seine River, craning for a glimpse of the looks, which continued LV's approach of mixing street style with luxury.

“I'm the second black man to ever experience this on the planet, the biggest fashion house in the world,” Williams said in an interview before the show, referring to his job since February.

Part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Louis Vuitton.
Part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Louis Vuitton.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
A model presents a creation by designer Pharrell Williams.
A model presents a creation by designer Pharrell Williams.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

Best known as the singer and writer of pop hits Happy and Blurred Lines, 50-year-old Williams ended months of speculation by filling the shoes of his friend Virgil Abloh, who held the job from March 2018 until his death in November 2021. Abloh had been the industry's highest-profile black designer, credited with forging a place for street style and loose skateboard looks in high-end fashion.

“My brother Virgil was the first. He made so many strides for the house and did so many things. He brought skate culture into this world while being an American black man. It's unreal that I get to do this as well,” said Williams.

Another creation by Pharrell Williams.
Another creation by Pharrell Williams.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
A model on the Pont Neuf bridge during the fashion show.
A model on the Pont Neuf bridge during the fashion show.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

LVMH chair and CEO Bernard Arnault and his family, who Williams has known for years, have been “extremely supportive” in his new role, Williams said.

He was first introduced to the Arnault clan in a collaboration to design sunglasses with Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs in 2004.

Models in creations by designer Pharrell Williams in Paris on June 20 2023.
Models in creations by designer Pharrell Williams in Paris on June 20 2023.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

Arnault and his children, all of whom hold important positions in LVMH, were seated in the front row, as well as Beyonce, Jay-Z, Rihanna and Kim Kardashian.

“The idea was to instill the idea that Louis Vuitton is also the master of tailoring of a dandy man who wants to be somewhat more elegant,” Vuitton CEO Pietro Beccari said of his brief to Williams.

“That was not difficult because that’s him. What you see on the catwalk is Pharrell, multiplied by 70 looks.”

“The significance in terms of symbolism is great,” said HSBC analyst Erwan Rambourg, noting that while many labels talk about diversity and inclusion, Williams' appointment was “taking a stance”.

A model presents a creation by designer Pharrell Williams during Men's Fashion Week in Paris on June 20, 2023.
A model presents a creation by designer Pharrell Williams during Men's Fashion Week in Paris on June 20, 2023.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

Robert Schramm-Fuchs, portfolio manager at Janus Henderson, an LVMH shareholder, said the group's push into the cultural realm could help broaden the luxury brand's appeal.

Given the large size of LVMH, the sheer number of new customers it must attract to move the needle is much higher than for smaller brands, Schramm-Fuchs said.

“If you bring in lifestyle and things like that, you have to be careful to keep it inclusive and not alienate existing customer groups. That's the challenge, and for now they are managing it very well.”

-Reuters

Models on the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris on June 20, 2023.
Models on the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris on June 20, 2023.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
Models present creations by designer Pharrell Williams.
Models present creations by designer Pharrell Williams.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
Part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2024 collection for fashion house Louis Vuitton.
Part of the Menswear ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2024 collection for fashion house Louis Vuitton.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes
More menswear creations by designer Pharrell Williams.
More menswear creations by designer Pharrell Williams.
Image: REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

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