Restaurant review: 95 Keerom, Cape Town

Who needs foams and airs and graces when you can have beautifully prepared simple food? asks Bridget McNulty after trying out 95 Keerom, a new Italian restaurant in the Mother City

I was lucky enough to go to Italy a few years ago, and the thing that struck me most about the (delicious) food was how simply everything was prepared.

We’ve all heard the story of how Americans warped the classic mozzarella and tomato pizza and turned it into a pineapple and ham confection, but it struck me that most of the world seems to have done that with our versions of Italian food. The meals we had in Italy were refreshing in their simplicity – wonderfully fresh food allowed to shine by virtue of the fact that it was superb quality, without needing any foams or airs and graces.

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Dinner at 95 Keerom reminded me of this because it has exactly the same attitude towards its food. Its tagline is “Real Italian Quality” and that’s exactly what you get on the plate, from the house speciality carpaccio (with generous curls of real Parmesan cheese), to the extraordinarily tasty fresh asparagus, decadent lobster pasta and superb ostrich and pork dishes.

It’s a big menu, with the classic Italian antipasti, pasta, fish and meat, as well as a whole section of carpaccio (raw and seared) and a number of superb side dishes (Parmesan mashed potato – be still, my beating heart!).

Luckily the staff recommend firm favourites and there are a number of options that are specific to 95 Keerom, so it’s not too difficult to make a decision.

The desserts are also a must, of course, especially the chocolate fondant which was as close to perfect as I have tasted, and the extensive wine menu complements the food beautifully.

The food, the wine, the glamorous interiors and ancient exteriors – the building is circa 1682 when it was built to house the stables and slave quarters of the Company’s Garden – all add up to the kind of evening you’ll remember with a smile. A simple, satisfied smile.

Call 021-422-0765.

This article was originally published in one of the Sunday Times Neighbourhood: Property & lifestyle guides. Visit Yourneighbourhood.co.za, like YourNeighbourhoodZA on Facebook and follow YourHoodZA on Twitter.