Cheers to a five-star chef's table experience in Umhlanga

Yasantha Naidoo heads into the kitchen at The Oyster Box to sample a luxe menu pairing fine food with fine whiskies

16 August 2017 - 14:34 By Yasantha Naidoo
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Some of chef Kevin Joseph's extraordinary culinary creations.
Some of chef Kevin Joseph's extraordinary culinary creations.
Image: Yasantha Naidoo

It was like a scene from Gordon Ramsay's Hell's Kitchen as a group of guests entered the bustling full-service sanctum of the Oyster Box's kitchen.

Delicious chaos reigned as aromas pirouetted and copper frying pans hissed aggressively while orders came and went. Temperatures soared - and that was just the staff, a hierarchy of hospitality professionals from dishwashers all the way up to head chef Kevin Joseph.

The chef's table invite was tantalising. An opportunity to be the guinea pig in an exclusive pairing between Joseph and his team and single malt scotch whisky Glenlivet in the middle of the action. A first-time pairing between a hotel and a whisky brand.

And who better to sell scotch to a South African audience than Scotsman Peter Methven, whose lilting accent conjures images of wee drams and picturesque lochs. Methven is clearly passionate about the brand, which claims to be the "single malt that started it all", as he regaled us with stories about whisky.

Once in the kitchen Methven revealed the whisky brands to be sampled with each course created by Joseph and invoked the whisky protocol, particularly useful for non-whisky afficionados (such as myself), on savouring the aroma and taste. For example, it's not necessary to dash two fingers of whisky with a mixer - a splash of water or ice is all that is needed; or that the aroma is different if your mouth is open while sniffing the amber liquid.

Not to be outdone, Joseph unveiled his treasure chest of appetisers that were deceptively genius. Sweet temptations in the form of macaroons and chocolate truffles were actually myriad delectable savouries all dressed up, from salmon mousse to squid-ink truffles.

The first course, a beer-braised beef shortrib, apple purée, green cabbage and black current pearls, was served with the opening salvo of the Glenlivet range, Founder's Reserve, billed as creamy and fruity. The pairing was exquisite.

The 12-year-old made the orange-infused crustaceans, fried calamari, cream bisque, caviar oil and salmon roe second course a dream to savour. Joseph's presentation of the dish in a scooped-out orange triggered the citrus and floral notes of the whisky.

An attractive palate cleanser of cranberry, cucumber and mint wedge with a gin spray prepared us for the smoked oyster ravioli with hazelnut brittle, apricot cream and micro herbs served up with the 15-year-old. The ravioli was disappointing but the filling and the accompanying elements were an exotic blend with the rich and spicy whisky.

The highlight was Joseph's parting shot, the delice Valrhona, chocolate malted barley- infused ice cream perfectly paired with the discerningly special reserve 18-year-old.

With a sated belly and in high spirits, there was no sorrow in parting.

NEED TO KNOW

Who to take

A group of six to 10 mates who will love the drama of a full-service kitchen. It won't disappoint.

How much do you need?

A choice of menus is available at R1,500 per person. For more info, oysterboxhotel.com

What not to do

Say you don't drink whisky.

Address

The Oyster Box, 2 Lighthouse Rd, Umhlanga.

• This article was originally published in The Times.

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