His own hashtag, #rocambolescoforti, meaning "the fantastic Forti", is a great tribute, and his chef jacket might as well have been a cape. Fortunato Mazzone is a superhero in my foodie-world. His creative talents have no boundaries and his new venture, Forti Grill & Bar, is proof of his "rocambolesco-ness".
The vibey, elegantly decorated eatery will surprise those who thought Mazzone would open a "new" version of Ritrovo, the popular restaurant which his family owned for 22 years. 
Forti Grill & Bar is best described as an international restaurant with a contemporary 21st-century feel. Gone are the days of dark interiors and garlic hanging from the wall in Italian eateries ... here there are no clichés and no fuss, just a light and airy space that elevates your dining experience.
Nothing is a copy of something Forti saw at another restaurant - everything, including the toilets, is bespoke, and there is a fine thread of Forti-ness running through the space. 
We loved the chef's table, running along one kitchen wall, which gives you a clear view of the chefs at work inside.You will find Forti on the floor, talking to guests as food is served. He can talk for hours about the lighting, the chairs, the art, the marble tables ... Everything chosen by hand to fit his dream space.
Forti is the fifth-generation chef in his family. "My father [Giovanni] was forced to come to South Africa in the dire economic circumstances that befell southern Italy in the aftermath of World War 2, and he came to support his family and seek his fortune."
Giovanni's father had run an inn in Pietrastornia near Naples, with a bar called Fortunato. "My father emigrated to South Africa as an 18-year-old, to work in the restaurant industry."He opened a restaurant called Giovanni's in Pretoria in 1976, which is largely credited for the Italian food revolution in this country.
"Although I am a development economist by profession I have been very proud to follow in his footsteps these last 30 years. I grew up in the business doing homework on restaurant tables when I wasn't waiting on them."
The decision to step away from Ritrovo was not taken lightly.
"I felt that we had achieved everything we could. There comes a time when one seeks new challenges and after 22 years it was time. It also felt opportune to give my father the opportunity of finally retiring and bowing out gracefully.
"We sold Ritrovo while it was still at the top of the game and this was important for us. We never wanted to become stale.
"I don't miss Ritrovo. I miss my father and the group of people around me who I used to see each day. But I truly love my new store. It is gorgeous, fresh, contemporary, challenging and everything I ever dreamed of."
We adored the wine list at Forti Grill & Bar; it reads like a funny, anecdotal novel. Forti decided to take charge of our food and wine order, and 19 dishes later, we were left in an Italian food coma.
Highlights included the Sicilian orange salad, the lumaconi (a stuffed veal pasta which will be ordered every single time I visit), and the special dessert that is a theatrical, small-portion serving of all of their desserts plated on the marble table.
THE LOWDOWN
Vibe: Old-school service, stylish Italian fine dining without compromise and a stunningly fresh interior.
Price: Three-course meal for two, with decent wine, around R1,000.
What to wear: Dress smart and sassy, but without pretentiousness.People who will like it: In Forti's words: "People who appreciate the smaller things. Artists, eccentrics, raconteurs, bon vivants, lovers, foodies, music nerds and other restaurateurs."
Hot tip: Book a table on the terrace and make the best of the magnificent Pretoria weather and the views - or book the amazing art-filled and elegant wine cellar for parties. Grab some goodies on your way out at the deli. They sell grass-fed, quality meat - and it comes vacuum packed too.SCORECARD: 20/20
Food: 5/5 
Ambience: 5/5 
Service: 5/5 
Value for money: 5/5 
Address: Sun Times Casino Rooftop (Level 2) Aramist Avenue, Menlyn Maine. Call 08600 FORTI or e-mail: info@forti.co.za..