No fusion confusion: Tomo serves up authentic Far Eastern cuisines

The combination of two personalities with a shared ethos has created an appealing outpost of Far Eastern culture at Tomo in Loop Street, Cape Town.

Owner David Yan envisaged a restaurant where the best original dishes of several Eastern cuisines were celebrated. Determined to get the right balance in the interior design, he did most of it himself, down to painting walls and making the furniture. The light wood, carved screens and Chinese character art create a harmonious, comfortable space.

Himself from Manchuria, north-east China, David has worked together with Japanese head chef, Michael, to put together a menu that is versatile, authentic and wide-reaching, without a hint of fusion confusion.

"I believe in authentic food. Japanese food is all about freshness, I cannot compromise that," says Michael. He’s ­teaching a trainee-chef knife skills at the open sushi counter as he chats, with a meticulous eye for perfection, seasoned with humour.

Originally from Hokkaido Island, North Japan, where his father was a chef, he has 40 years cooking experience, many of those working in Cape Town, most recently at Willoughby’s.

As you’d expect, there’s an extensive, specialised sushi offering at Tomo, and the rest of the menu entices you to explore further types of Eastern food.

David explains the history of the dumplings: traditionally a Chinese dish from his native Manchuria, after occupying the region during WW2, the Japanese took the concept back to Japan, frying the dumplings instead of boiling them.

Here at Tomo, the prawn, salmon and vegetable dumplings are­ fried, Japanese-style, but the lamb and beef dumplings are steamed, to retain the succulent juiciness of the filling.

David has introduced "robata" – meat, fish and vegetables grilled over high heat – the Japanese version of a braai. There is a tempura section, as well as udon and soba noodle bowls.

The bento box is a perfect introduction, generous enough to share one between two for a lighter lunch. Mine had three types of stunningly fresh sashimi, tuna, salmon and saba (marinated mackerel); salmon California rolls; prawn tempura in a spicy mayo dressing; gorgeous lamb dumplings; fried chicken on a mashed potato salad, creamy with Japanese mayonnaise; crispy prawn wontons; rice-paper vegetable rolls and a feisty Thai dipping sauce; and a subtle steamed hake with fresh herbs, not to mention blocks of sticky rice, swirls of fresh salad and fruit.

This article was originally published in the Sunday Times Neighbourhood: Property and Lifestyle guide. Visit Yourneighbourhood.co.za