Restaurant Review

TV chef Pete Goffe-Wood celebrates all things carnivorous at Viande in Paarl

Nose-to-tail dining is the focus of this refurbished restaurant at the historic Grande Roche Hotel in the Cape winelands, writes Kit Heathcock

19 September 2019 - 00:00 By KIT HEATHCOCK
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Chef Pete Goffe-Wood wanted to make the eatery at the luxe Grande Roche Hotel "more modern and approachable".
Chef Pete Goffe-Wood wanted to make the eatery at the luxe Grande Roche Hotel "more modern and approachable".
Image: Supplied

Beautiful heritage buildings dating back to the 1700s, blocks of vines, a backdrop of Paarl Rock and sweeping views over the valley, Grande Roche Hotel really is Paarl in a nutshell.

Until recently it was exclusively the domain of hotel guests but new owners Theresa and Hansie Britz, themselves Paarlites and local winemakers, wanted it to become a social hub for locals too.

To this end they have partnered with Chef Pete Goffe-Wood for their restaurant and hotel food offering. His reputation as Kitchen Cowboy and master of meat gives a clue of what to expect – the name Viande, French for meat, confirms it.

Locally sourced, nose to tail, the menu showcases varied cuts of meat – with plenty of non-scary meat and vegetarian options – upmarket bistro rather than fine-dining in style.

The wine list also has a local focus, highlighting Paarl, Wellington and the Paardeberg region.

“We wanted to get rid of the stuffiness and the fear of being shouted at if you use the wrong fork,” says Pete. “But still cognisant of where we are in a historic building, the grandeur remains but we’ve given it a new lease of life – more modern and approachable.”

The decor is chic and quirky, encouraging laughter and conviviality rather than hushed dining room propriety.

Viande's dry-aged prime rib, pomme pont neuf (Parisian fried potatoes) and sauce Bordelaise.
Viande's dry-aged prime rib, pomme pont neuf (Parisian fried potatoes) and sauce Bordelaise.
Image: Charles Russell
Viande's ice cream sundae and espresso martini.
Viande's ice cream sundae and espresso martini.
Image: Charles Russell

Everything is done in-house, from curing bacon and dry-aging meat, to pickles and jam-making.

Kicking off our lunch, vetkoek and soft rolls came with farm butter and a delicious herby, salty whipped lard.

Robust flavours are the hallmark here, our starter of smoked silverfish was full-on smoky, freshened by fennel, citrus and tarragon salad cream.

Robust flavours are the hallmark here

Next up, the veal sweetbreads with gnocchi were an absolute treat, rich with mushrooms and home-cured bacon – deep umami winter sumptuousness.

Roast lamb rib-eye for mains, uncomplicated and hearty, came with a luscious creamy baked aubergine dish fragrant with basil.

Chocoholics should go for the ice cream sundae – vanilla and chocolate ice cream on rich chocolate mousse, chunks of brownies and caramelised hazelnuts.

We were also treated to an espresso martini – a concoction of 15-year-old KWV brandy, espresso, Galliano coffee liqueur and a touch of orange zest.

Viande looks set to become Paarl’s hot new spot for cocktails and tapas at the bar, sundowners on the terrace, and epic Sunday lunches, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner, adding a warm welcoming vibe to this historic gem.

Visit Viande at the Grande Roche Hotel, 1 Plantasie Str, Paarl. See granderoche.com



Image: Supplied

This article was originally published in the Sunday Times Neighbourhood: Property and Lifestyle guide. Visit Yourneighbourhood.co.za


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