Cognac is a secretive place. I feel this as I walk along the cobblestone streets of the small French village, exceptional only because every few blocks there are grand Cognac Houses that hold, in underground cellars, the classified recipes of each particular brand. So when I'm invited into one of these cellars by the cellar master of the oldest cognac maker in the world, on the premise that he's going to share some of his secrets with me, I follow him, without question, through the mouldy tunnels and into his lair...