Creation Wine's Aromatic Winter Experience is a feast for the the senses

A gourmet weekend on a wine farm in Hemel-en-Aarde delivers some wonderful surprises

20 June 2021 - 00:00 By and hilary biller
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The Tasting Room, positioned for the best views of Creation Wine Estate.
The Tasting Room, positioned for the best views of Creation Wine Estate.
Image: Creation

I'd never fully experienced the might of a Cape winter storm before, and there was no better place to watch the driving rain and howling wind than from beside a roaring wood-burning fire, glass of Creation Elation bubbly in hand, in a cottage — the Voormanshuis — at the foot of the Babylonstoren mountains on Creation Wine Estate.

Established by Jean-Claude and Carolyn Martin in 2002 in Hemel-en-Aarde in the Western Cape, the area is famed for the pinot noir and chardonnay wines it produces, and is a short drive from the seaside town of Hermanus.

The floor-to-ceiling glass windows to one side of the cottage made us feel we were right in the centre of the storm, looking back into the mountains, the vineyards, trees and fynbos awash with the earthy hues of autumn.

During the storm I kept nipping out onto the covered veranda to soak up the atmosphere and a heady mix of aromas: the smell of rain soaking dry vegetation; the herbaceous fragrance of damp fynbos; the musty smell of piles of fallen leaves and the perfect antidote for a cold evening, the fragrance of a cream of cauliflower soup with a hint of nutmeg warming on the stove in the cottage, marking the start of what was to be a gourmet weekend.

I speak of a heightening of the senses as this is what Carolyn, who is never short of creative ideas, and her kitchen brigade — led by the unflappable and talented exec chef Eleanor Niehaus — have cleverly used in creating an Aromatic Winter Experience in the Tasting Room restaurant, the hub of the wine estate.

Perched on a hillside, the venue offers the best vistas of the farm, to one side the dam filled to the brim after the rains. The real beauty of the place lies in its versatility and how you want to enjoy the Creation offering — a casual wine tasting in the cellar, a brunch pairing enjoyed al fresco on the lawn, or a sit-down occasion in the restaurant, toasty warm around the central fire.

There's something for everyone, including vegetarians, vegans and pescatarians, and even those who are gluten intolerant — their brunch pairing is gluten free — and for those who aren't, you won't feel short changed as each course packs a flavour punch.

Hake served on a beautiful ceramic dish.
Hake served on a beautiful ceramic dish.
Image: Creation

The Aromatic Winter Experience, a culinary highlight of the weekend, is a sensory journey explored through six courses; all small portions, tapas-style, yet each big on flavour served to highlight the versatile nature of a specific cultivar or blend of Creation wines.

And through the evocative descriptions on the menu come many references to Jean-Claude's Swiss heritage, like the starter, a potato and celery rosti with cream cheese and a shot of spicy dhal soup served with Creation's Sauvignon Blanc 2020 which awakens the senses.

I loved the Resonance course: a fillet of perfectly steamed line-caught fish, hake at its best (Creation use the Abalobi fishers who supply sustainably sourced seafood to the restaurant) enlivened with a dab of gochujang, a Korean chilli paste tamed with some fresh lime and dashi, a Japanese-style broth. It was delicious and served in a custom-made ceramic dish alongside their chardonnay 2020, a visual treat.

The dark, almost purple-coloured Creation Syrah, Grenache 2019 was the perfect foil to the rich, hearty three bean duck cassoulet with handmade chipolata.

Stack of mini crêpes Suzette.
Stack of mini crêpes Suzette.
Image: Creation

For dessert, a pretty stack of mini crêpes Suzette, the layers sandwiched together with a delicate cinnamon coconut cream, served with a Clemengold sauce and accompanied by a straw-coloured, fruity Creation Viognier 2020.

A fitting feast to end a wonderful stay.

The Aromatic Winter Experience costs R495, including the wine tasting with each course. The Tasting Room is open Monday to Sunday. Call 028-212-1107 or visit creationwines.com

• Biller was a guest of Creation.


THREE OF THE BEST CREATION WINES

Winemaker Jean-Claude shares some of his top picks:

1. Vivaldi in a glass: Creation Viognier 2020

Creation's Viognier is planted on the cooler south-facing slopes where the vines yield evenly ripened, firm-skinned grapes with good acidity. The longer hang-time is beneficial as the build-up of the aromatics and full flavour profile come right at the end. The wine is not fermented in oak barrels but in stainless steel to preserve the racy freshness and minerality. The purity of fruit makes this wine enticing and versatile. R140 per bottle.

2. Forever romantic: Creation Pinot Noir 2020

A bevy of seductive red berries, the earthiness of shiitake mushroom. Sheer romance in a glass. My favourite cultivar - I love drinking it, love growing it and love making it. The Hemel-en-Aarde, close to Hermanus with its cool climate and clay-rich soils is eminently suited to the cultivation of top quality pinot noir. R230 per bottle.

3. Oh so umami: Creation Syrah, Grenache 2019

This well-endowed Rhône-style blend rewards with intense flavours of ripe plum, black pepper, tapenade and umami. The cool climatic conditions at Creation are well suited to the cultivation of Rhône cultivars as we have an extended ripening period. The syrah and grenache grapes are picked some three to four weeks later than the pinot noir and we follow a similar winemaking approach, with minimal intervention. R215 per bottle.


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