Why MasterChef SA guest judge’s eatery is a fitting tribute to Africa month

I remember her calm presence as a guest judge on the recent series of MasterChef SA. Chef Mmabatho Molefe walked around the MasterChef kitchen eager to see the contestants’ interpretations of her passion, Zulu cuisine.

She highlights this cuisine in her restaurant, Emazulwini, where a friend and I found ourselves sitting recently. In the tiny 10-seater restaurant, the wall behind is a beautiful collection of photographs and African craft.

To one side there’s a view over the busy harbour and in front of us is the open kitchen, offering a bird’s-eye view of the goings on and where we find the chef working, her head down, quietly crafting her Nguni cuisine.

The scene is exactly as Molefe describes in a recent social media post: “I feel most comfortable when my head is down and I’m working.” And she is. She's surrounded by a small team. The mood is one that is serious about food.

The seven-course menu reads like a beautiful African tale sharing anecdotes of Molefe’s life and is dedicated to her Zulu mom and Sotho father. She warns, very gently, that it will take a diner about two and a half hours to eat.

Each dish is prefaced with an enchanting story that makes the perfect entrée to the course. With a chilled glass of Limestone chardonnay in hand we are charmed by the first umbila.

Presented in a beautiful wooden bowl are two small mielie breadsticks with a sweetcorn dip and parsley mayo.

This is a tribute to the memory of her father and her walking to school and the evocative sensory delight of braaied mealies sold by a lady on the street.

It’s good. Next gorgeous chicken liver truffles, creamy and rich as a truffle should be and so cleverly rolled in a chocolate crumb, the richness balanced with an onion jam.

A highlight was the corned beef tongue, ulimi moshatini, brined and slow-cooked beef tongue cut into thin slivers and served with variations of tomato and amazi dressing.