Zioux’s new winter menu is a riot on the palate

Chef Moloi introduced the first phase and we can’t wait to taste more

29 June 2022 - 08:33
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Dessert was a taco shell resting on a treacle sponge, chilli chocolate mousse, citrus and naartjie sherbet.
Dessert was a taco shell resting on a treacle sponge, chilli chocolate mousse, citrus and naartjie sherbet.
Image: Supplied

I just want to be clear from the start: Zioux is a vibe. An opulent oasis in an urban jungle where a live DJ entertains diners and the finest décor touches fill the space with glamour. With Besele Moses Moloi at the helm as head chef, it’s a riot.

His resume includes working internationally at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Florida in the US and locally at Greenhouse Restaurant, the Saxon Hotel’s Grei Restaurant and, more recently, as head chef at FYN in Cape Town.

In March he bagged the Culinary Rising Star Award at this year’s Luxe Restaurant Awards; Zioux won the Style Award.

Baby chicken with chipotle in adobo and corn custard.
Baby chicken with chipotle in adobo and corn custard.
Image: Supplied
Calamari fried in bonito butter with crispy tentacles, cucumber and arbol chilli.
Calamari fried in bonito butter with crispy tentacles, cucumber and arbol chilli.
Image: Supplied

Moloi’s latest flow of creativity has come in the form of the new winter menu at Zioux. He revealed the first phase — which consists of six new dishes added to the à la carte menu — last week, with two more phases planned in the weeks ahead.

Using French cuisine as a foundation but drawing inspiration from Latin America, Moloi’s new dishes are warmer, heartier offerings that feature bold flavours, bright colours and striking design.

A highlight is the asparagus, fresh truffle and pumpkin seeds with coconut tiger’s milk and a drizzle of bright coriander oil. All the elements marry beautifully and play a vital role in the dish, from the delectable truffle to the humble pumpkin seeds.

Inside Zioux, where everything is an art, from the decor to the food and the wine list.
Inside Zioux, where everything is an art, from the decor to the food and the wine list.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer
Sirloin, lamb rib and Merguez sausage served with bean salad and charred tomato salad.
Sirloin, lamb rib and Merguez sausage served with bean salad and charred tomato salad.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer

Following closely on the heels of the asparagus number are slithers of Wagyu bavette with fine marbling swimming in a ponzu dressing with a herb salsa and just the right amount of restraint of fresh truffle. The effect is that of an umami bomb with slightly sweet notes.

Then there’s the calamari fried in bonito butter with crispy tentacles, cucumber and arbol chilli. Cleverly cut to resemble noodles, the calamari plays mind tricks on you while the chilli gives a lovely warmth without a sharp bite.

Meat lovers will rejoice over the sirloin, lamb rib and Merguez sausage served with bean salad and charred tomato salad as well as the succulently soft baby chicken with chipotle in adobo and corn custard.

If eating with your eyes first, feast on this: a delicate chocolate taco shell adorned with cornflowers resting on a treacle sponge, chilli chocolate mousse, citrus and naartjie sherbet.

With Stephanie Cartwright at the helm as the sommelier, your wine pairings will be equally joyous. A vinous treat was the buttery Carl Everson 2020 chenin blanc, the smooth 2015 The Long Fuse from Jordan Wine Estate in Stellenbosch and the bright and lovely Genevieve Brut Rosé MCC.

There wasn’t a fault to be found in the taster plates I enjoyed of Moloi’s winter menu, a fact I could easily blame on the wine. But I’ll happily give credit where credit is due.

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