It’s hell, man: life without Hellmann’s and fish paste

Nanandi Simone Albers drove to four towns and 11 stores in one day and even offered a reward in her desperate bid to find Hellmann's mayonnaise, which was pulled from South African supermarket shelves in January.

The Western Cape business and legal rights consultant is among scores of South Africans up in arms at the discontinuation of favourite products, the latest being the American-made mayonnaise.

Just as consumers were coming to terms with Chocolate Log, Tempo and Simba tomato chips being pulled from their culinary lives, Unilever announced the end of Hellmann’s mayonnaise.

Fans of Peck's and Redro fish paste are also dealing with their loss after it was withdrawn more than a year ago.

Hellmann's told South African consumers via its Facebook page that “due to high inflationary import costs, we will regretfully be discontinuing Hellmann's in South Africa until further notice”.

Unilever, which imported Hellmann's, did not respond to questions from the Sunday Times.

But economist Dawie Roodt said with South Africa being far from many countries “we are prone to high transport costs” which drive up the price of importing goods.

“We have an exchange rate that is volatile, which tends to depreciate over time. This is an important driving factor which is causing a spike in import costs.”

Roodt said the estimated depreciation of the rand of between 5% and 7% is likely to have pushed costs up.

“In addition, South Africa is a vast country without well-developed infrastructure and that means to get stuff from Durban to other parts is expensive. 

“These factors can have a big impact on food from the rest of world, especially for high-end products like high-quality mayonnaise.”

Roodt says expensive imported foods are likely to either disappear from our shelves or become more costly.

“But this creates an opportunity for South Africans to manufacture similar products and avoid import costs.”

The Hellmann's announcement sparked a buying frenzy among those who count it as a must-have condiment.

Albers, who has stockpiled about 10 bottles, said the mayonnaise was an emotional link to her parents and brother, who have died.

“I love Hellmann's so much that the joke has been in our family that if I'm on a ventilator they would wave a bottle under my nose and if there's any reaction they would know I'm OK.

“I am angry. I don't accept that the product was discontinued because of cost and inflation. 

“When I found out I took a day and drove to four towns in the Western Cape.”

Albers paid more than R900 for eight bottles from a small-town delicatessen and got two bottles couriered to her from another source.

Sam Linsell, a recipe, food and travel blogger, posted on her Drizzle and Dip website that she was distraught when she learnt about the end of Hellmann's in South Africa.

Linsell has since devised her own version which she shared on her social media platforms.

Umhlanga businessman Stuart Johnson and his mountain biking group were also left winded when Pioneer Foods announced that Redro and Peck's Anchovette fish paste brands were to  be discontinued in late 2021.

“Every Saturday our group used to stop at King Shaka International Airport and have anchovy toast. When they discontinued Peck's we went out to every store from Durban to Howick.”

They bought about 50 jars.

“We bought every jar of Peck's or Redro we could find more than a year ago. Those supplies are running out ... they will last us to around June.

“It is a bit of crisis. We even had one of the guys and his brother bring some fish paste from the UK.

“There is a restaurant in Johannesburg that has apparently cracked the recipe. We want to try it and, if it's good, we will get our supply from there.”

Pioneer Foods said in a statement to the Sunday Times it's aware of “the disappointment expressed by many consumers regarding the discontinuation of our fish paste brands”.

“As part of the ongoing review of our product portfolio, we made the decision to sell our fish paste business. 

“These iconic household brands have been under the custodianship of Pioneer Foods for many years but changing priorities and market dynamics led us to the decision.”

Ahmed Tilley, a creative consultant, said: “It's always sad when brands we grew up with and enjoyed all our lives suddenly exit. It’s an emotional experience, much like a break-up you never wanted. 

“This is the power of brands. Brands have emotional connections to people whereas products simply offer a utilitarian use, often offered by similar products.”