Chef Reuben is on fire

I think every chef has a dream of how they’d cook for people in an ideal world ... for me, my dream scenario is definitely cooking with fire. There’s a happiness that goes with cooking on a fire — a freedom and festive feel to it — and that is what I love about it.

Reuben Riffel’s Braai

LAMB CUTLETS WITH SALSA VERDE

Serves: 4-6

Some good lamb over the fire just hits the spot every time. I believe that fired lamb loves anything herbal ... I’d go with salsa verde over barbecue sauce any day. Take the briny saltiness of capers and add anchovies, garlic, fresh herbs and some acidity. The fattier the lamb, the punchier the salsa verde can be. 

12 lamb cutlets

Olive oil

10ml (2 tsp) finely ground fennel seeds

Salt and ground black pepper 

Salsa verde

250ml (1 cup) flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped

30ml (2 tbsp) fresh oregano, roughly chopped

2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

30ml (2 tbsp) baby capers, rinsed

Juice of ½ lemon

2 anchovy fillets

15ml (1 tbsp) white wine vinegar

60ml (¼ cup) olive oil

1. For the salsa verde, use a mortar and pestle to grind all the salsa ingredients, except the olive oil, into a coarse paste. Add the oil and stir to combine. Season to taste.

2. For the lamb, brush the lamb cutlets with olive oil, and then rub with ground fennel seeds and season with salt and black pepper. 

3. Prepare hot coals. Grill the lamb cutlets for 3-4 minutes on each side until medium rare. Turn the cutlets fat-side down, laying them against each other for support, and allow the fat to render and crisp.

4. Set the meat aside to rest in a warm place for 5-10 minutes. Serve the lamb cutlets drizzled with the salsa verde.

T-BONE STEAK WITH ANCHOVY AND ROSEMARY BUTTER 

Serves: 2-4

T-bone steaks add a sense of occasion to any meal. I remember eating at one of New York’s oldest steakhouses, Peter Luger, and one of my chefs joined me in sharing a 1kg T-bone ... phenomenal. It didn’t need a sauce. The waiter basically slathered the steak in just its own melted fat at the table. When you braai a T-bone, it must be the best you can find, and you simply let the steak be the star. I occasionally use a small amount of barbecue sauce, but mostly I go for a flavoured butter, as it just works.

500g T-bone steak 

15ml (1 tbsp) olive oil 

Salt and ground black pepper

Watercress or rocket 

Anchovy and rosemary butter:

100g unsalted butter, coarsely chopped 

5 anchovy fillets, finely chopped 

2 golden shallots or 1 small red onion, finely chopped 

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 

15ml (1 tbsp) fresh rosemary, coarsely chopped 

5ml (1 tsp) Dijon mustard 

5ml (1 tsp) red wine vinegar

1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the anchovy fillets, chopped shallot/onion, garlic and rosemary, and sauté until the shallots are soft (2-3 minutes). Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard and vinegar. Taste and season. Set aside and keep warm until needed.

2. For the steak, prepare hot coals. Brush the steak with olive oil and season to taste. Grill until medium rare, 5-6 minutes on each side (55°C on a meat thermometer). Place the steak on a warmed plate, cover with foil, and let it rest for 5-10 minutes.

3. Serve the steak with the anchovy and rosemary butter, garnished with watercress or rocket sprigs.

FIRE-ROASTED MIELIES ON THE COB WITH LIME PARMESAN CREAM

Serves: 4-8

We all have our favourite mielie recipe, because mielies are such a good vehicle for adding flavour. My love of mielies started as a child, and we always had them on the braai. For me, it’s the sensation of eating them — they’re sweet, a little messy, and you have to lick your fingers afterwards. With the addition of a lime Parmesan cream, you’ve got acidity, umami, spice and richness added to the char and smokiness ... even more reason to love them.

Lime Parmesan cream

125ml (½ cup) mayonnaise

125ml (½ cup) sour cream

Zest of 2 limes

180ml (2/3) cup finely grated Parmesan

8 mielies

30ml (2 tbsp) olive oil

Salt and ground black pepper

Shichimi togarashi spice (also known as Japanese seven-spice blend)

Handful coriander leaves 

Lime wedges 

1. Whisk all the ingredients for the lime mayonnaise cream together — the mayonnaise, sour cream, lime zest and Parmesan cheese — in a bowl until well combined. Season.

2. For the mielies, remove silks from the mielie cobs and tie the leaves/husks back to create a handle for turning them on the coals.

3. Blanch the mielies in batches in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towel.

4. Prepare hot coals for the mielies. Brush mielies with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the mielies, turning them occasionally, for 10-15 minutes, or until a little charred.

5. Transfer to a tray and drizzle with lime and Parmesan cream. Sprinkle with togarashi spice and coriander, and serve with lime wedges.

In a box with pic of cover

‘Braai’ by Reuben Riffel

Quivertree Publications

R495