Martin Briggs goes cycling in the countryside north of Paris While enjoying the delights of Paris, visitors may want to experience some of the surrounding countryside. The Forest of Compiègne in the region of Picardy is approximately 60km north of the French capital.story_article_left1We took the train from Gare du Nord in Paris to the city of Compiègne, on the northwestern edge of the forest. Although the area can be explored in a day, we overnighted in Compiègne. Attractively positioned on the banks of the River Oise, Compiègne's pedestrian streets are lined with old residences with timber-framed frontages.Mindful that, since 1968, Compiègne has been the starting point of the famous Paris-Roubaix bicycle race and also hosted the finish of the third stage in the 2007 Tour de France, we set off next morning past the Château de Compiègne, a former royal residence from where the Avenue des Beaux Monts provided a scenic promenade to the forest.Dense foliage enveloped us as the surfaced bike path took us deeper into the woods. Tall trees - conifer, beech and oak - flashed by, their branches reaching to the ground, weighed down in summer foliage. Here and there a glint of yellow-gold lined the leaves, heralding early autumn. Our pathway snaked in and out of alternating dense woodland and open heathland. The forest covers 5800ha and includes birch, ash, chestnut and maple trees.Gliding along, we began to speculate on its history. Indeed, the forest had for centuries been a hunting ground for French royalty. The first royal residence here was built in the 7th century by Clothaire the Great. The forest became a favourite retreat for Emperor Napoleon III. In addition to hunting forays and competitions, the forest of Compiègne was the scene of extravagant receptions, parties and theatrical performances. Game animals that still shelter in the undergrowth include deer, rabbit and wild boar. We passed numerous streams and ponds.full_story_image_hleft1The octagonal forest is criss-crossed with paved paths and intersections (carrefours), harbouring vintage signposts.Interesting destinations bordered the forest. At the southeast end, we exited into the village of Pierrefonds, where the Château de Pierrefonds stands proudly.The castle is impressive and one of the most photogenic in the Picardy region. It is often used as a film set.The original castle existed here as early as the 12th century, and was then replaced by a more substantial castle towards the end of the 14th century. The castle stood peacefully overlooking the trade route between Burgundy and Flanders until the early 17th century. The owner at that time was opposed to the accession of Louis XIII to the throne, which ultimately resulted in the castle being besieged and largely destroyed by Richelieu.Two hundred years later, in 1810, Napoleon I bought the ruins but circumstances prevented him from doing anything with the castle. It was his nephew, Napoleon III, who was to instruct Eugène Viollet-le-Duc to rebuild it, starting in 1857. It was specified that the castle should give the appearance of an authentic medieval castle and it was during the next 20 years that most of the castle walls and towers that we see today were built. One of the most curious architectural features is that whereas the outside has the appearance of a medieval castle, much of the interior and courtyard were designed in the much later renaissance style.The Château de Pierrefonds is now a national monument. As well as exploring the large salons, the central courtyard, the donjon and the chapel, visitors can follow the walk around the parapet (chemin de ronde), which gives you lovely views across Pierrefonds village and lake.story_article_right2The forest is notable as the site of the Armistice between the Allies and Germany, which ended World War I on November 11 1918. A memorial site, Clairière de l'Armistice (the Armistice Clearing) covers the historic treaty area. Significantly, a second treaty was signed here during World War 2, this time arranging an armistice between Nazi Germany and France. Clearly aiming to humiliate his defeated enemy, Adolf Hitler gave orders that this surrender should be recorded, on June 22 1940, in exactly the same spot, and also in the same railway car, where the Germans had surrendered in 1918.Exiting at the southern end of the forest, we passed Gallo-Roman ruins comprising an amphitheatre, temple and bath. From there, our route took us through open agricultural land to follow the River Oise down to the pretty town of Auvers-sur-Oise. To avoid busy roads, we took the train back to Paris feeling refreshed from our countryside outing. - ©Martin BriggsShare your travel experiences with us in 'Readers' World'. We need YOUR high-res photo - at least 500KB in size - and a story of no more than 800 words. ALL winners receive R1000. Only winning entrants will be contacted. E-mail travelmag@sundaytimes.co.za..