City on a Plate
A foodie's guide to Venice: what to do in 48 hours
From food markets to wine bars, there's so much to discover in Italy's 'Floating City'. Allison Foat suggests a two-day itinerary
Venetians don't do breakfast the way the rest of us do. They tend to stop at a cafe en route somewhere, down a shot of espresso and a bombolone (small doughnut) at the counter, then exit into their day.
Farini is a bakery and coffee shop near the Rialto Bridge - try a latte macchiato with a cannoli (a pastry oozing cream made from ricotta, vanilla and cinnamon). If you sit down to eat, it costs more.
If money is no object, try the legendary Caffè Florian on Piazza San Marco (St Mark's Square) - it's pricey but worth it.11AM: OUTDOOR MARKET
The Rialto Market is next to the eponymous bridge, which straddles the Grand Canal and is the oldest in Venice, circa 1181. Many locals do their daily shopping here - go and observe their banter with fishmongers and farmers. If you don't know your fontini (artichoke hearts) from your fagioli (long red and white beans), pick up a bag of ciliegie (cherries) and wander to acquaint yourself with the delicacies. When you're done, have lunch and a glass of vino at one of the many nearby trattorias. Campo de la Pescaria.1PM: LIGHT LUNCH
All'Arco (Calle Arco, San Polo 436, phone +39-041-520-5666) is a popular bàcari, a backstreet bar where locals gather.
It's close to the Rialto Bridge but not many tourists know about it (yet) and prices are reasonable. Sit at the window with a plate of cicchetti (small snacks) and an Aperol Spritz.
If you want to buy something special, made in Italia, buy a fabulous pair of soft, handmade pumps by Kudetà. At €175 a pair it's a splurge but you'll feel like you're wearing slippers, which is a thing these days, only these are stop-and-stare gorgeous treads.
5PM: AFTERNOON COCKTAILS
The Hotel Aman on the Grand Canal is a breathtaking example of 16th-century opulence. George and Amal Clooney had their wedding reception here. Have a sundowner at The Bar or enjoy high tea in a grand setting...