Readers' World

How to bag a bargain in Zanzibar

Everything you need to know about the Spice Island, you can learn from the Beach Boys, writes Sunday Times reader Cindy Liebenberg

16 July 2017 - 00:00 By Cindy Liebenberg

You can learn more about the people, food and cultures of Zanzibar from the Beach Boys than any brochure, website or travel agent.
These entrepreneurs can be found on all the popular beaches offering day trips and advice about the various destinations in Zanzibar.
Although the official tour operators and resort owners do not condone their presence, they are tolerated and often work in conjunction with resort staff.They are the backbone of an alarmingly poor country, which has a well-oiled network of entrepreneurs who believe in sharing the little bit they have with their counterparts.
On a previous trip we had booked all our day trips with a recognised tour operator and had a good time; if sharing a boat with 16 strangers is for you, then by all means go for it. This time we opted to make use of the services of Abdul and his friends.
Bear in mind that all the trip destinations are the same regardless of how you get there, so it really is comparing apples with apples.
Our trips were all at least $10 per person cheaper than the other guys. We were always just our company of four on our boat, whereas the official tours accommodate up to 20 people.
Our food was exquisitely prepared by locals adept at cooking lobster, prawns, seagull and chips on an open fire. Even the informal guides have to be registered as tour guides and the buses and boats they use are licensed.You may be stopped many times along the way by police demanding to check their credentials.
Abdul told us some hair-raising stories of corruption, flippantly referring to kickbacks as Coca-Cola. He is an extremely smart young man whose greatest wish is to attend university, and is trying to save up to pay for himself.
With a deadpan expression he told us that other students pay him $50 to take exams on their behalf. They pass and get the qualification and he can save and prepare for when he has enough money.
Whether all his stories are true is an open question; but he is a very entertaining and knowledgeable tour guide.My family and I had nipped across to the Spice Island during a recent cold spell and opted for an all-inclusive resort holiday.
Now this might not be everyone's cup of tea but we loved our stay at the Paradise Beach Resort, east of the capital, Stone Town.What makes this resort special is its location. Unlike some of the more secluded resorts - there are many - this one gives you the opportunity to explore the surrounding villages on foot or by dallah-dallah, an open-air taxi that can carry up to 20 people plus a couple of chickens. It is a wonderful, cheap way of getting around while interacting with the people.
Swimming in the sea at Paradise Beach is practically impossible at low tide as the ocean pulls back far beyond the reefs, exposing the mucky seabed that is too mushy to walk on.
However, Second Beach is a pleasant 45-minute walk away and all our resort's guests were welcomed there. A shuttle service is also available.
The resort has a lovely swimming pool, and bathing in the sea or off the jetty at high tide is possible and quite pleasant.
We also went kayaking. A Blue Bulls rugby player and his partner undertook a beach run every morning. They also opted to hire a scooter and drive around the island, rather than doing day trips.
Remember to always take stationery, toys and chocolates from South Africa for the children.
Such gifts are appreciated and can either be delivered to local schools or given to the local children in the villages or on the beaches. 
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