In something of a rut, I decided I needed a sort of rollercoaster ride, so I planned a solo trip to Argentina, on which I would do such scary things as have carry-on luggage only and travel by local bus.
The vibrant city of Buenos Aires was a stimulating start. I had booked a homestay with a Spanish-speaking lady in the central Monserrat area.
Exploring the city on foot, I discovered many delights, including the bohemian neighbourhoods of La Boca and San Telmo, where the first immigrants settled.The immensity, opulence and superb acoustics of Teatro Colón were spellbinding as the music of the Buenos Aires Philharmonic Orchestra played out my final night in the city.
THE FUN NEVER STOPS
My next challenge was to embark on a nine-hour overnight bus ride from Buenos Aires to Córdoba. Retiro bus terminal is a nightmare of 60 platforms connecting cities all over Argentina and neighbouring countries.
The ticket was purchased online but it took some wandering and enquiring in ‘“Spanglish” before I settled in for the night on a cama bus (with seats that recline to beds) bound for Córdoba.
Early morning bus-stop announcements all ended in “Córdoba”. I merrily rode on until I eventually asked a Frenchman where we were.
He explained that we were by then on our way to the final destination, Alta Gracia, also in the province of Córdoba (and the childhood hometown of “Che” Guevara).To add to my embarrassment, the Frenchman pointed out that I had a red light shining from my backpack.
My headlamp had switched on, making me look like an aged travelling hooker. He deposited me on a bus back to Córdoba.
My plan was to explore the Jesuit Trail.
The route forms part of the historical Camino Real (the Royal Way, the Spanish road from Lima and Potosi into Argentina). Pope Francis has shone a light on this mostly overlooked province. After the expulsion of the Jesuits by Spain in 1767, most of their mission settlements in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina fell into disrepair, whereas the ones around Córdoba are still functioning establishments.
WOMAN ON A MISSION
Home to the country’s oldest university (established in 1613 by the Jesuits), Córdoba city has a large student population. It was refreshing to wander among the youth enjoying the sunshine, sharing maté (herbal tea, an institution in Argentina), while musicians busked in the parks and plazas.The historic heart of the city is the Jesuit Block (Manzana Jesuítica), which contains the core buildings of the Jesuit system, including the national university, the church and chapel. From here, the Society of Jesus expanded to rural farms.
A long, dusty road through scenic grassland and views of the Sierras Chicas led to the gleaming, white twin bell towers of Estancia Santa Catalina church.A guided tour of the property revealed a priest’s residence, workers’ quarters, a mill and a reservoir. In 1622, they constructed an ingenious subterranean irrigation system, which brought water from the hills to the thriving farm.
Adding to the charm of Catalina is the fact that it is still the residence of direct descendants of Antonio Diaz, who acquired it 250 years ago when the Jesuits were expelled.
Estancia Caroya was the Society’s first rural establishment (1616). Through the years it has worn many hats: a productive farm, summer retreat for students, weapons factory during wars of independence and home to Italian immigrants.
Estancia Jesus Maria (1618) houses the National Jesuit Museum, a large collection depicting their turbulent history. Vineyards and winery produced Lagrimilla, the first New World wine presented at the Spanish court. The adjoining reservoir and park contributed to the tranquility.By now I was well out of my rut and ready to roll again — this time a 12-hour bus ride to Salta (city and province). I reckoned overnight transport, which includes a semi-bed and a meal, was a good deal compared to flights and accommodation.
Solo travel turned out to be an excellent way to interact with and trust strangers. And grabbing a backpack was less stressful than lugging a suitcase and anxiously waiting at the carousel for luggage which may have in fact flown to Cordóba, Spain! 
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