Readers’ World

Cultures collide in ancient, captivating Istanbul

Serenity and chaos miraculously co-exist in this city that straddles Europe and Asia, writes Sunday Times reader Heidi Davies

19 November 2017 - 00:00 By Heidi Davies

It was just before midnight when our magic carpet landed at Ataturk airport, Istanbul.
A taxi drove us into the city of 16 million people, where it navigated through the narrow streets of the Sultanahmet area, the driver hooting frequently to avoid the gawking tourists and cars. Does this city never sleep?
To see the mighty Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque lit up after midnight was a sight to behold.Now the ripe old age of 1,479 years, the Hagia Sophia already existed when Istanbul was called Constantinople, and remained the world's largest cathedral for over 1,000 years, changing from cathedral to an imperial mosque, to its present-day status as a museum.
In contrast, the Blue Mosque is a mere baby at 400 years, but no less spectacular.
Topkapi Palace was the main residence of the Ottoman sultans for almost 400 years and conjured visions of One thousand and one nights. Every entrance was clogged with camera-wielding tourists and it took a while to get to one of the vantage points on top, to glimpse the Bosphorus, the boundary between Europe and Asia.TULIPS FROM TURKEY
The beautiful manicured gardens displayed masses of tulips, which incidentally originated in Turkey and not in Holland as is commonly believed.
The word tulip is derived from the Turkish word "tulbend", meaning turban and it is Turkey's national flower.
We decided to take a tram to the Basilica Cistern, another must-see in Istanbul.
Entering into the bowels of the earth underneath the hectic city is an ethereal experience. A world of peace, tranquility and beauty greets you in this place, resembling a palace submerged in shallow water, almost like a forgotten world.We then went from serenity to total visual overload at the Grand Bazar, one of the largest covered markets in the world with over 4000 shops.
It is an Aladdin's cave of earthly delights, exploding with colour like a fire cracker.
It leaves the traveller dizzy with the perpetual motion of people, flowing like a river through its lanes.
Every stand is crammed with objects, from lamps to pottery to jewellery, but none are as tempting as that ambrosial treat, Turkish Delight. Sold loose or in boxes, they are packed with pistachios, pomegranates, almonds, figs or rose petals.
INTOXICATING FRAGRANCE
Not far from the bazar is the Spice Market, no less frenzied, except here mainly spices and foods are sold. Spices cover shopfronts like tumbling patchwork blankets. Others sell strings of dried fruits, drifts of pink rose petals, mountains of pistachios and plump, juicy dates. The whole place exudes an intoxicating fragrance, making you salivate in anticipation of dishes you might create.
Walking through the streets of Istanbul constantly offers something interesting to see. At a fresh fruit stall, we bought freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, which had a deep, dark red colour and a tartness to make you squint and pucker your mouth after each sip. It was remarkably refreshing.Stray cats are everywhere and are generally respected and cared for by the people.
At a carpet shop, you get invited in and immediately offered a glass of apple tea, while carpet after carpet is unrolled in front of you as the resident cat snoozes nearby on a pile of cushion covers.
In spite of all the noise, you can still hear the cry of the Muezzin calling the faithful to prayer several times a day.
This is a city like no other, a city between east and west, past and present, old and new, a city that will bewitch you.
As the French writer Alphonse de Lamartine once said, "If one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze on Istanbul."
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