9AM: BREAKFAST, CAKE & COFFEE
But first, coffee. Right? Wrong. Pastries are the thing in Lisbon, a serious business, and eating them may as well be declared a national pastime. Since you're there, you may as well have your cake and eat it, first thing in the morning.
The pastel de nata is Portugal's queen of tarts and one of the best places to indulge is Nata, next to the St George Castle entrance. The custard, best eaten with a teaspoon, is infused with hints of vanilla and cinnamon and the top is singed to a flaky perfection. Chase it down with a galão, an espresso with foamed milk, then walk it off on a tour of the castle.10AM: SIGHTSEEING
Castelo de Sao Jorge (St George Castle) is atop the highest of Lisbon's seven hills and you can tour it in an hour. Parts of it date back to the 6th century, when it was fortified by Romans and Visigoths and once occupied by the Moorish royal family. Much of it was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake and what remains is impressive towers, turrets and long ramparts that offer stunning views over the city and the Tagus River.
11AM: HISTORICAL WALKABOUT
Take Tram 28 up to Alfama and walk through Lisbon's oldest and most charismatic district, which slopes from the castle to the river bank. Influenced architecturally by the Moors, it has a wonderful air of authenticity.
Wander down patterned pavements and through a maze of narrow, cobbled lanes and small squares, where painted wall tiles and mosaics reveal the backstory of a time gone by. Alfama is home to several historical sites, including remnants of the ancient Moorish Wall and the oldest church in the city, the 12th-century Lisbon Cathedral. See golisbon.com.
1PM: LUNCHPortuguese cuisine is simple, hearty fare and Portugalia Cervejaria Belém is a great place to try sardinhas (sardines), caldo verde (onion, potato and kale soup) and cozido (stew).
The bonus is the view of the Padrao dos Descobrimentos monument, which celebrates Portugal's Age of Exploration.
3PM: SHOPPING
In 1846, LX Factory in Alcantara was a fabric production plant. Today it has been transformed into a hub of arty businesses, including fashion, food, architecture and design. You'll find out-of-the-ordinary products in stores such as Wish (wool scarves) and India That Wears You (silk pants). On Sundays there is an open-air vintage market. Cantina is a great place to chill over a glass of wine.
5PM: TRADITIONAL DRINK
Ginjinha is a local liqueur combining sour ginja berries with alcohol and sugar. Try one at A Ginjinga, a miniscule bar opened in 1840 on Rossio Square, now a festive meeting place for locals. €1.20 gets you a single shot, served with a cherry in the bottom of the glass. 
8PM: DINNER & FADO
Have dinner at Sr Fado, a family-run restaurant owned by fado singer Ana Marina and fado guitarist Duarte Santos. Taste traditional Portuguese food as you listen and sing a traditional fadinho, the melancholic song that reveals hope, longing and the soul of Portugal.
11PM: NIGHT CAP
Pensao Amor is a Bohemian bar in the Cais do Sodré district. Its decadent interior is a throwback to its former bordello days. The once seedy part of town with its Rua Nova do Carvalho - "the pink street" - was made over in 2011 and is hip and happening. Go late: things only amp up from 11pm...