Rand-friendly Iran probably isn't on your bucket list, but it SHOULD be

The last hoorah of the day casts a faint yellow glow over the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, bringing to life the breathtaking beauty of Iran's iconic religious complex.

The gentle clacking of horses' hooves on the concrete mingles seamlessly with the sounds of children playing, while friends and couples chat excitedly as they sit alongside a central series of fountains.

It's idyllic.

As a cyclist stops a few metres in front of me and whips out his phone to take a picture, I'm forced to break from my trance-like stare at the bright blue exterior of the building in front of me.

I shake my head and blink repeatedly as it hits me: it's a Tuesday in October and I'm in Iran, a country I never thought I'd visit, sitting cross-legged in front of a structure so glorious I can scarcely believe I'd never heard of it before.

The Imam Mosque in Esfahan, a central city 340km south of the capital Tehran, is a World Heritage Site of remarkable stature.

The Naqsh-e Jahan Square (which translates to "image of the world") is 560m long and 160m wide.

Each of the four sides is held together by grand architecture. Everywhere you turn, there is something that will draw your attention.

To the east is the 400-year-old blue and yellow Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque, built exclusively for the royal family.

To the west is the Ali Qapu pavilion, a 48m, six-storey building used as an entertainment area, the balcony a favoured spot from where Persian Safavid rulers would watch the horseracing and other events play out in the square below.

To the north is the portico of Qeyssariyeh, a series of balconies and awnings that lead into a shopping bazaar that, according to Unesco, is 2km long.

But it is the southern end of the square that will draw you in. The Imam Mosque, also known as the Shah Mosque or Grand Mosque, was the tallest in Isfahan when it was completed in the 1620s.

It stands more than 50m high and has a 28m diameter. Its seven-colour tiles, mostly shades of blue, would reflect the sunlight and stand as an important landmark on the Persian stretch of the Silk Road trade route. Today, the fully functioning mosque has the same appeal. It's difficult to look away.

The interior of the dome - and, in fact, the entrance into the dome - is equally impressive. Blue, gold and turquoise floral designs flow up the columned walls and meet at a dazzling central focal point. As you might be able to tell by now, I was smitten.

A RARE EXPERIENCE

So how did I wind up here, in a country sandwiched between war-ravaged Iraq and Afghanistan, slap-bang in the Middle East? The trip was an invitation from the Iranian Embassy in South Africa, billed as a "cultural, economic and political" tour of the country.

It was a trip not many South Africans make: the embassy says only between 3,000 and 5,000 people head there each year - and the majority of these are business travellers.

It's a trip more people should be making.

Not only is Isfahan a great drawcard - it's as beautiful, if not more so, than any of the historic sites I've visited in Turkey - but Tehran itself is a modern, safe city with great attractions of its own (see below).

BEAR IN MIND

There are, of course, some considerations that you have to take into account.

Because of recently-lifted, US-led sanctions, Iran's banking system is primitive and you're not likely to find many places that accept credit cards, particularly Visa. The best is to arrange US dollars and exchange them at the airport for local rial ($1 will get you about 37,000 rial; R1 will get you about 3,000 rial).

Also, being an Islamic republic, modesty is an accepted norm - even if, according to our minder, is it starting to get more relaxed.

Women must be covered and must wear a headscarf. This is not just when entering religious sites; it is a permanent requirement.

Men, too, must wear long pants at all times - I was even advised to wear tracksuit pants during my morning runs in Tehran.

It is considered immodest to hug a person of the opposite sex.

In general, it's best to be cautious - although very little is likely to happen to you should you make an unintentional gaffe.

It would also be in your interest to have a guide or a translator.

The people are friendly but English is not widely spoken. This is not essential, but will make things a little easier.

Oh, and prepare yourself for sobriety while you're there. Alcohol is outlawed, and almost impossible to get.

But these are minor considerations when you see what you're getting.

It's an untapped tourist market (you'll definitely be able to brag to your friends about your having been somewhere they haven't), it's a rare place where the rand is a stronger currency, shopping won't require a second mortgage on your house and, as I found on that random Tuesday in October, it is immaculately beautiful.

TEHRAN: TALES OF COURAGE & BEAUTY

The archer draws back on his bow, every muscle screaming in the cool morning air as he strains to make his arrow fly further than he's ever done.

A loud thwack echoes from the mountaintop as the arrow is loosed. As it hurtles through the air, the archer tumbles to the ground. He draws his last breath, never knowing that his arrow will be airborne for an entire morning, pegging into the ground at exactly noon more than 2,200km away.

This fable, of course, is exactly that: a fable. But it's one of the most revered from the pen of Persian poet Ferdowsi. It tells the story of Arash, a soldier, who, blessed by the gods, shot his arrow from the top of Iran's highest mountain, Mount Damavand, as a way of settling the border point between Persia and Turan after a brutal 60-year war.

The story is immortalised in a 7m statue at Sa'dabad Palace, a sprawling 300ha complex comprised of natural forests, decorative gates, beautiful buildings, tree-lined streets, galleries and museums.

It's an unexpected place, a peaceful and picturesque break from the hustle of Tehran, a city with more than 8,1 million people.

Unexpected. That's the perfect word to describe Tehran - and Iran in general.

Perhaps it's because it shares a border with Iraq to the west and Afghanistan to the east, or maybe because of how much media attention the 444-day hostage situation at the US Embassy from 1979 to 1981 got, but Iran is often viewed as a war-torn Middle Eastern country that should be avoided at all costs. Truth is, it's anything but.

Tehran is a modern city by any standards. It has a fully functioning underground metro system with 108 stations, and is used by 3-million people daily. It has two airports, one for domestic travel, the other for international.

The 435m-high Milad Tower is the sixth tallest tower in the world, and the views from its 280m observation deck are incredible. The Tabi'at Bridge ("Nature Bridge") is 270m long and connects two public parks.

And, as I found out, Tehran is also home to Mr Special.

On East Sepand Street, 100m from our hotel, the Tehran Grand 2, right opposite a fruit-and-veg store, is the best barber I've ever been to. Judging by the trophies and certificates littered all over the parlour, he's also the best barber in Tehran. It cost me about R50 for a cut and shave, and it's the best R50 I've ever spent.

Tehran is unexpected. Developed, cheap, safe, unique and filled with surprising little gems all over the place. Throw in some mythical archers and time-defying arrow flights, and you've got an absolute winner of a travel destination. 

PLAN YOUR TRIP TO IRAN

GETTING THERE

There are no direct flights from South African to Iran, but getting to Tehran from Joburg is an easy flight via Dubai on Emirates, Istanbul on Turkish Airlines or Doha on Qatar Airways. Return airfares are around R10,000.

Visa applications are done through the Iran Embassy in Pretoria and take approximately 15 working days to process.

Internal flights, including from Tehran to Isfahan, can be done through multiple companies, including Iran Air, Mahan Air and Qeshm Air.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

CASH IS KING

Credit and debit cards are useless in Iran, so bring enough hard currency for the duration of your stay.

BE CONSERVATIVE

Perhaps the most visible mark of Iran's Islamic leanings is the conservative
dress expected of its citizens. Although typical, Western-style clothing is acceptable in private homes, when in public, women are required to cover their hair.

NO TOUCHY-TOUCHY

Greet people of the same sex with a handshake, but avoid physical contact with people of the opposite sex.

THUMBS DOWN TO THUMBS-UP

The thumbs-up gesture is extremely rude in Iran, roughly equivalent to raising a middle finger in Western countries.- Iranian Embassy in SA

• Savides was a guest of the Iranian Embassy.