The man held our driver's licences, car keys and passports. Dark glasses, tight uniform, remarkably large white teeth, the epitome of sadistic authority.
"No cash, let us have a smoke together instead," my travelling companion suggested, offering the prepared packet with neatly rolled US dollar bills inside.
This appealed to the man in uniform. He smiled, selected his prize, returned our stuff and off we went.
Our mission was to find the rare green-headed oriole, a bird found only on Mount Gorongosa in Mozambique, some six hours from Beira, depending on the depth of the potholes and the complexity of the roadblocks.
Targeted birding has its challenges. Arriving at the beautiful Gorongosa National Park, we soon learnt that the rebel movement, Renamo (Mozambican National Resistance), allowed no one onto this mountain, their stronghold.
Negotiating skills were again required. An emissary was sent, who returned a day later exhausted, with conditions laid down by Renamo: no guns, no male Mozambicans, meet our man at the foot of the mountain, obey all his orders. "We leave at 3am."As we stood alone on the vast plains, Mount Gorongosa appeared slowly from the receding night and did not seem that huge. But as we drove higher up the slopes and foothills, even sophisticated vehicles started overheating and we knew the mountain was not going to show its treasures for free.The Renamo man was impressive, having those traits many wish for and few have. We were to go straight up, using the soldiers' routes. He would take us high enough to be in the area where green-headed orioles occur, but not to the summit. Renamo leaders lived there, he said, and did not wish to be seen.
We were to stay with him, which was easier said than done. He was used to traversing the mountain carrying a heavy machine gun and today his hands were free, as were his long legs, which seemed to glide over and under obstacles with a grace normally associated with forest animals.The mountain was higher than it had seemed, the pace was fast and the route was challenging. Our birding guide Frazer said: "The good news is there are no other orioles on this mountain. If you hear the call, it will be green-headed. We just need to find it."
Forest birding is challenging at the best of times. When the forest is on the top of a lone mountain, the trees grow dense and tall in their quest for space and light. The lowest branches were 30m up - and all foliage seemed to be as green as our bird.
Suddenly, the explosive, liquid song stopped everyone in their tracks, Renamo man included. This was it!
Our breathing became heavy from excitement, long lenses ready, sound equipment activated, binoculars scanning.Mount Gorongosa conspired for many minutes to build the tension. The calls would suddenly cease and then resume from a different direction. How did they get there without any of us spotting them? Would we ever? Anxiety.
And then, out of the green, the green-headed oriole. Unique, unmistakable, beautiful. Moss-green head, yellow collar, green back. The grandson's hands grew steady, his breathing slowed, his long lens brought the birds into our hearts and memories forever.
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